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Today was another day of gorgeous sunshine, but accompanied by high winds with gusts of over 40mph. Therefore, after a delicious breakfast, I decided to head for an exposed hillside!
Wideford Hill, just outside the capital of Kirkwall, is home to another Neolithic Cairn (there are lots here). It's reached from a small car park halfway up the hill by a 20 minute walk along the exposed hillside. Once there, I had to slide the hatch aside and descend a metal ladder through a small gap into the darkness below. I was wearing my head torch, which allowed me to view the interior of the tomb and the craftsmanship required to construct it.
Next I drove up the coast to The Broch of Gurness. This is the remains of an Iron Age settlement constructed around 500 to 200 BC. A Broch is a large circular tower consisting of drystone walls which are about 4.1 metres (13.5ft) thick. The most compete example of one is in Shetland and resembles a modern cooling tower. The one at Gurness is still very impressive and is a great showcase of the skills that were used to construct this 2500 years. At Gurness, the tower is surrounded by the remains of a village. It is not known why Broch's were built, but defence is probably the most likely reason.
Next I headed to the Brough of Birsay. This is a small uninhabited island which can be reached at low tide over a causeway. It features remains of Pictish and Norse settlements and a modern lighthouse. After exploring the island, I embarked upon a walk along the coast, past some fantastic cliff formations, to Skipi Geo. This is a natural harbour that was used by fishermen. During the summer their boats were stored on the beach, but in winter they would be hauled up into depressions called nousts to store them. A reproduction of a turf-roofed fisherman's hut helps set the scene.
A little further along I passed a whale bone set upon a wooden post which resembles a bird in flight. I then turned inland to the ruins of the Earl's Palace. Built in the late 16th century by Earl Robert Stewart as a statement of power and wealth. Unfortunately, both the Earl and his son were notorious oppressors of the local population.
Having been out in the high winds for about two and a half hours, I headed to The Birsay Tearoom for a Cheese, Ham and Pineapple Toastie, Hot Chocolate with Cream and Marshmallows, and homemade Shortbread - just what I needed.
From the shop down the road, I sampled a Chocolate Ice Cream from the Orkney Dairy - delicious!
I then went for a drive to Stromness, the second largest town on the island, before heading back to Kirkwall to pop into the Co-Op for a sandwich for tonight as I didn't feel like hungry enough for a full meal.
On the way back to the B&B, I made one more stop at Cuween Hill Cairn. As the name suggests, this is also on an exposed hillside, which was rather windy. The Cairn is entered through the original entrance, so I had to get on my hands and knees again.
Back at the B&B, after having an interesting chat with Dave, one of my hosts, I tucked into my Beef and Horseradish Sandwich, Crisps by Mackie's of Scotland and a Coke Zero.
Today we drove 99 miles, and passed the 1,000 mile mark for the whole trip.
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