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Having dropped the GS off at his Nan's in South Wales for the May half-term, I decided to make a weekend of it in West Wales. My accommodation for three nights was my first foray into the world of AirBnB and was a self-contained annex to a farmhouse which was located literally at the end of a road-cum-farm-track just outside Ciliau Aeron. The accommodation was very comfortable, secluded and with stunning views.
This is an area I'd only driven through as part of day trips over the Abergwesyn to Tregaron pass, so I avoided the areas I'd previously visited to concentrate on those new to me.
The first morning dawned with the kind of weather conditions you'd normally expect in West Wales on a May bank holiday - dull and overcast with an ever so slight drizzle. But I was prepared as I made my way to The Arch, near Cwmystwyth.
The Arch is situated to the side of the Devil's Bridge to Cwmystwyth road. Constructed in 1810 of masonry to commemorate the Golden Jubilee of King George III it was once the gateway to the Hafod Estate. There are three short walking trails from here and I chose the 1.5 mile Panorama Trail - the drizzley weather conditions being perfect for a panoramic view! It was a lovely walk and the mist added to mystic of the place.
I next headed to the aforementioned Devil's Bridge. The village is situated where the Afon Mynach falls into the Rheidol at the head of the spectacular Rheidol Valley as the river flows into Aberystwyth.
The Devil's Bridge crosses the Mynach at the point where it drops 300ft in five steps down a steep and narrow ravine. The original bridge dates from medieval times. It was believed to have been built by monks to provide a road to link two monasteries - hence the locals naming it Devil's Bridge. In 1753 a new bridge was erected on top of the original, which was subsequently upgraded in 1777 and 1814. In 1901 a third bridge of iron was built over the existing bridges, creating a stack of three bridges.
The walk down the ravine is both spectacular and quite tough going with steps carved out of stone and a Jacob's Ladder. Care is required but it was definitely well worth it!
I then indulged in a cheese and bacon toastie at a tea room near the car park before heading along the valley to the Bwlch Nant yr Arian Forest Visitor Centre. By now the sun had made an appearance and I combined a couple of walking trails which offered spectacular views of the valley and red kites as well as passing through a wooded area where several trees had been ripped up recent storms. Having spotted on the OS map some standing stones, I went off piste to see them before rejoining the trail back to the car park.
I drove through Aberystwyth, stopping at a Co-op to get a sandwich for tea before making my way back to the farmhouse.
The next day again dawned dull, but soon brightened up. I headed south to Cilgerran Castle. The first castle on site is believed to have been built around 1111 by Gerald of Windsor and over the next hundred years or so saw ownership continually change between the English and Welsh.
In 1223, the 2nd Earl of Pembroke, William Marshal, began construction of the current stone castle. It passed through the hands of several families before being abandoned by 1400.
I then took the short drive to Cardigan, where I enjoyed sausage, chips and cheese with gravy at a lovely chippie. I wandered around the beautiful little town for a bit before heading for the castle.
Overlooking the River Teifi, the current castle was rebuilt in 1244, although the first in Cardigan was built about 1093 by the Norman baron Roger de Montgomery. Like many castles in Wales, it changed hands several times. In 1776 under Welsh rule it was the site of the first ever Eisteddfod.
After being badly damaged during the English Civil War, the castle's main use was as a prison. Then during the first decade of the 19th century the owner John Bowen built Castle Green House within the walls, which was extended in 1827. In 1940 it was bought by Barbara Wood, who lived there for the next 60 years, despite it falling into disrepair. After moving into a nursing home, she sold the castle to the council who renovated it. The castle was opened to the public in 2015.
After leaving Cardigan I went for a little drive in the sun before stopping at the beautiful, picturesque coastal town of Aberaeron. After wandering around and sampling an ice cream, I headed back up the road to the farmhouse.
The next day dawned cloudless and so it stayed for the whole day. My original plan had been to head home but after deciding to extend for another day and discovering there was no room at the inn, I decided to book a night in Pembroke Dock, so needed to head south.
My first stop was the Pentre Ifan Burial Chamber. Dating from approximately 3500BC, it now consists of a spectacular arrangement of 7 large stones, the largest of which is the 16ft long capstone.
The next calling point was the Gors Fawr Stone Circle. Composed of 16 low stones the circle has a diameter of 70 feet. It's located near the Preseli Mountains from where the Stonehenge bluestones were quarried. The circle itself is a mix of bluestones and local glacial erratics. There are two outlying stones which seem to align with Carn Menyn, believed to be the source of those bluestones used in Stonehenge.
Next it was time for a castle bonanza, commencing with Llawhaden. This was built in the 13th century by the Diocese of St. David and was abandoned in the 16th century. It's believed to have replaced a motte-and-bailey castle.
A short hop up the road is Wiston Castle. This is still a motte-and-bailey castle. The castle and village was founded by the Flemish settler Wizo, who was granted the lands by Henry I after he had captured it from the Welsh. It was abandoned in the 13th century after the owners moved to nearby Picton Castle.
I then moved onto Carew Castle and Tidal Mill. Spectacularly situated next to a mill pond, the castle is still owned by the Carew family. The Tidal Mill is the only restored example of its type in Wales. The first references to a mill at this site date from 1542 and the present building dates from the early 19th century.
Taking a break from castles, the next destination was Lamphey Bishops Palace. Built 1328-1347 under Bishop Henry de Gower, the bishop of St. David's for the use of high-ranking clergy. It originally had over 20 rooms, fishponds, orchards, gardens and a deer park. They had a hard life!
Next was the last castle of the day - Manorbier. In the late 11th century the land was granted to Norman Knight Odo de Barri. He built a wooden motte-and-bailey castle. His son started to replace it with stone in the early 12th century. In 1146, Gerald of Wales was born at the castle. He gained fame as an archdeacon of Brecon and historian. Much of his writings survived and are an important historical record.
Not quite done for the day, I made for the spectacular Elegug Stacks, two large detached limestone pillars which are home to thousands of birds. There is also a sea arch nearby.
Just along the coast is St. Govan's Chapel. The tiny chapel, measuring just 20x12 feet, was built into the side of a limestone cliff in the 13th century on the site of a cave that was the home of the sixth century monk St. Govan.
From here it was just a short drive to Pembroke Dock to be greeted by my AirBnB host Lucy, where I had a room in her flat above her accountancy business. On her advice, I walked round the corner to The Shipwright Inn for a lovely gammon steak followed by a handmade cheesecake - the best I've ever had the pleasure of experiencing.
My final day was another sunny one as I headed to Pembroke Castle. Built in the early 13th century, it was later given to William Marshal who was one of the most powerful men in England. It's extensive remains are a delight to explore and the guided tour was very interesting. In the courtyard is a massive map of the major Welsh castles.
Part of the castle sits above Wogan Cavern, said to have been the home of a red dragon which kept the local area full of greenery. Then, when it was sleeping a rival dragon turned the landscape white, causing hardship for the locals. Upon waking and seeing the devastation, the red dragon fought and eventually killed the imposter. However, it was mortally wounded and went back to its cave to die. This legend explains the origins of the Welsh flag, and there are many locations that lay claim to it. However, here there is irrefutable proof as the cave walls are speckled with red from its blood and there is a claw print near the entrance.
On that note, it was time to start the long drive back home via Burger Star in Ross-on-Wye.
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