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It had rained all night, though thankfully it had stopped by the time a very sodden Minx and I left Arisaig for the 10 minute drive to Mallaig for the ferry to Armadale in Skye. It was very windy and the crossing was the chopiest of the three I've experienced this week, but nothing major or like the Staffa trip. Indeed, I was very lucky as later sailings were cancelled due to high winds. If mine had been cancelled, I'd have been able to drive to Skye, but if you look at the map you can see it's quite a diversion!
Virtually immediately off the ferry, I stopped at Clan Donald Skye, based at Armadale Castle. The Clan Donald built a mansion house here in 1790. In 1815, a mock castle was built next to it for show. Part of the house was destroyed by fire in 1855 and replaced by a central wing. It was abandoned by the MacDonald family in 1925, since when it has fallen into ruin. It's easy to see how grand it once was, but we're unable to explore the castle.
Clan originally meant children, but over time changed to indicate people united by actual or perceived kinship and descent. Similarly Mac meant son of, so someone called MacDonald would be son of Donald. However, it has become embedded in surnames. So, Clan Donald and MacDonald mean the same thing.
McDonalds is something far less impressive!
After a look at the remains of Armadale Castle, I strolled along one of the nature trails in the grounds, which had some great views. The trail brought me to the castle gardens, which are well preserved. I then headed into the Museum of The Isles, which told the story of the Donald Clan in Skye. A very good audio guide was included.
As I left, the weather was still dry so we took the opportunity to get the roof off. I then took a detour off the main road to Tokavaig to visit the dramatic remains of Dun Scaith Castle. By the time we parked at the bay, it was spitting. The castle was once the stronghold of the MacLeod before it became the principle seat of the MacDonalds. There's not an awful lot left of it now. A short, easy but squelchy walk led to the ruins, where there were great views north to the Cullin and Suisnish coastline.
By the time I was reunited with the Little Minx, the rain had started to get heavier, and was set to continue for at least 24 hours! Nevertheless, we soldiered on. In Broadford we stopped at Deli Gasta where I enjoyed a Great Glen Venison Sandwhich (cheddar cheese, red pepper jelly and venison salami) together with a Hot Chocolate. We then drove along the road to Elgol for the stunning, albeit cloud shrouded and grey, views.
The rain was quite a torrent by now. As we were driving along I noticed many temporary waterfalls that looked like white veins following down the lush green mountains. Some were very spectacular but unfortunately there was nowhere safe to stop to grab a quick photo or two.
I then made my way to Portree, where I shall be spending the next two nights in a lovely B&B.
Not being hungry enough for a full meal I popped into the Co-Op and grabbed myself a bargain: a premium ham and egg sandwich reduced from £3 to 79p. With a packet of McCoy's salt and vinegar crisps and a bottle of Diet Coke (still no Coke Zero) it made for a very satisfying tea.
Total mileage today was 106 miles.
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