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As both my GS and I are fascinated by history and ships, we decided it was time to explore the Historic Dockyard in Portsmouth. There's a lot to explore, so we went for a long weekend.
The heatwave was still in full swing, so we drove with the top down. While most of the attractions are on the Portsmouth side of the harbour, there are a couple residing on the other side in Gosport. Although there is a shuttle service linking all the attractions, we had to pass Gosport it made sense to check them out first. To this end we headed to The Explosions Museum.
Arriving in time for lunch we made for the cafe where GS had a scotch broth and I tucked into a brie and bacon baguette. The cafe also boasts a fantastic view across the harbour and over the other side the leviathan that is HMS Queen Elizabeth, the navy's brand new aircraft carrier and the largest ship in their history.
The museum is packed full of all sorts of naval armaments, big and small. There were no explosions but it certainly ensured the trip started with a bang!
Next on the agenda, just down the road, was the Submarine Museum. Here we got to explore the HMS Alliance, Britain's only surviving WWII era sub. Launched in July 1945 it wasn't commissioned until 2 years later. Until its decommissioning in 1973, the Alliance criss-crossed the globe. From 1973 until 1979 it served as a training boat. Since 1981 it's been a museum.
One of the on-board guides was serving on the Alliance at the time of its decommissioning, so was able to provide a fascinating insight. We also got a chance to look through a periscope towards the harbour.
Also on site is The Holland I - the navy's first sub launched in 1901. In comparison with the Alliance it's tiny and it was only in the middle that I could stand upright. However, as there is so little equipment inside, it's surprisingly spacious.
Decommissioned in 1913, she was being towed to the scrapyard when she encountered very severe weather and sunk about a mile from Eddystone Lighthouse. Fortunately no-one was on board and the tug was undamaged.
The wreck was located in 1981 and raised a year later, coated in anti-corrosion chemicals and put on display in 1983.
After popping in to see some friends in Gosport for cake and a cuppa, we headed towards Portsmouth. We stopped at the Beefeater in Cosham where we took advantage of their earybird menu. GS enjoyed steak, rare, and their yummy triple-cooked chips while I had gammon steak. As the chips are unlimited, we had an extra portion between us.
Our AirBnB accomodation was actually in Southsea and consisted of a room in a ground floor flat where we shared the kitchen and bathroom with our warm and friendly host Alex. It provided everything we needed - a bed each, shower and most importantly for GS decent WiFi - at very reasonable cost.
The next morning, after a breakfast of toast, we walked the 40 minutes to the Historic Dockyard, getting ice cream on the way as it was already hot. Our first destination was The Mary Rose, although this wasn't included in the almost all encompassing Dockyard ticket.
I saw the Mary Rose soon after she was first put on public display after being raised from the seabed in 1982. Since 2016 she's been residing in a brand new and impressive purpose built museum. Launched in 1511, she was the pride of the Tudor fleet until she sunk in battle in The Solent in 1545.
Sealed in a climate controlled environment to protect her remaining timbers, she is beautifully displayed. On two levels we walked alongside her while on the other side was a mirror image where artifacts such as cannons were displayed. Periodically, the lights would dim and short films projected on to the remains depicting what would have been going on in that portion of the ship - loading the cannons or cooking a meal.
Then on the third level we went through an airlock and were in the very same room as the timbers, looking down upon the remains. The museum is one of the most impressive I've ever had the pleasure of visiting.
It was then time for lunch, which consisted of a salmon sandwich for GS and a delicious pork stubbie (short but very thick sausage roll) for me.
Alongside the museum, for £6 each, we had an opportunity to contribute to the Tudor England Lego Mosaic. When completed it will be a copy of a contemporary Tudor depiction of a sea battle. We were given an 8x8 baseplate and plan each and then had to place the 64 single blocks of various colours on the baseplate and once verified as correct add our contributions to the mosaic. The scheme is running throughout the summer.
We then got an opportunity to build and keep a Lego crown. Later, GS imaginatively converted his to the bug like Crown Crawler.
Also on display was a previously completed mosaic of the classic Henry VIII portrait.
We then explored HMS Victory. This is most famous for being the flagship of Admiral Horatio Nelson during his victory at the Battle of Trafalgar in 1805. This ensured British naval supremacy over the French during the remainder of the Napoleonic Wars. It was also when Nelson was mortally wounded.
Launched in 1765 and commissioned in 1778 she has never been decommissioned, making her by far the longest serving naval ship in the world. After serving as a harbour ship from 1824, she was moved to a dry dock as a museum ship in 1922.
The audio tour provided a fascinating insight into on board life and told the story of Trafalgar. As it was operated by pointing the laser to various points around the ship, it also allowed us to hone our targeting skills.
After another ice cream, we clambered on board the HMS M33. Built in 1915 she saw active service in the Mediterranean during WWI, including the infamous Gallipoli Campaign. Having been sitting in the sun all day and constructed of metal, entering her was like climbing into a large oven! The GS was delighted to get the opportunity to open and close the breach of the ship's large gun.
After a brief stop to sit in a naval helicopter, we popped into the air-conditioned environment of the HMS Victory museum, which was fascinating.
We finished today's visit at Action Stations, where GS attempted the climbing tower and assault course before it closed for the day.
On our way back to the flat, we stopped by Shake and Grill. Here GS had a turf and surf burger with prawns and a strawberry cheesecake shake, while I enjoyed a bacon and cheese burger and a cookie dough shake.
Our final day at the Dockyard started with a harbour tour. The 45 minute boat trip consisted of a fascinating tour as we passed close by ships that we couldn't get close to otherwise. Interesting commentary was provided throughout. The star of the show was undoubtedly the HMS Queen Elizabeth as we sailed right next to it and was able to really appreciate the scale of the ship.
Our next destination was Boathouse No. 7 for lunch. GS ordered a freshly made Mediterranean pizza while I decided to have another pork stubbie.
We then made a repeated visit to Action Stations for another go at the climbing tower and assault course as well a helicopter simulater and a moving climbing wall.
Then we visited our final ship, the HMS Warrior. Built in 1860, she was the navy's first ironclad. Touring her you get a feel that she was at the cusp of changing technologies. Not only was she ironclad, but was powered by a combination of sail and steam. Although cutting-edge at the time of launch, the rapidly changing technology meant that by the arrival of the mastless HMS Devastation in 1971, Warrior was obsolete. Nevertheless, she remains a beautiful ship and it was fascinating to see how much had changed from the time of the Victory.
The day was concluded with a final visit to Action Stations before we made our way back to the flat. Later, we popped around the corner to a chippie restaurant where GS tucked into cod, pea fritter, cheesy chips and gravy while I enjoyed a battered sausage with my cheesy chips and gravy.
Valid for a year and with plenty to explore, the entrance fee for the Historic Dockyard is extremely good value for money.
The next day we headed home. Instead of stopping off at any en-route castles, we popped in to see my Mum who's recovering in hospital, and making good progress.
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