After having a couple too many beers last night, not sleeping much and waking up at 6am to go surfing, I felt a little rough. The swell had well and truly arrived though - it was 3/4ft out the front and the wind had dropped a lot.
I went out for about 2 hours first thing, and it was ok but not brilliant. There seemed to be good ones coming through, but I just couldn't get myself in the right place at the right time.
Despite having a pretty poor surf I loved being back out in the water with friends again, rather than just surfing alone. I was just as stoked to watch some of the other people surfing, as I was to get waves myself.
Having got out the water as the tide was kinda ruining it, Dave and I had a coffee, then went off in my car to check some of the surrounding beaches. Unfortunately Mullaway, Mullawarra and Red Rock were all crap, so we came back to camp.
When we got back there were loads of people back out in the water again, as the dropping tide has made it better, and not just closing out all the time. We surfed for about another hour and a half, then got out and went for lunch.
After lunch I was a little tired, but when we went back down to the front and checked it again about 2pm it was by far the best it had been all day. There were sets coming through well above head height, and there were some long right handers breaking all the way through from the outside into the shore break. I had easily my best session of the day, getting a few really good ones. Also we were surfing with Jordan, one of the head instructors, and he gave me some good tips.
He is the next sort of step up from where I am with my surfing, as he is able to do some small airs and better turns. As a result of that it's great to watch him and try and pick up little tips, whereas watching Morgan/Linton they are so good it's unrealistic to even hope I get as good as them.
By dinner I was quite tired, but stayed up and had some beers on the GHQ balcony as usual.
(Photo - Lorraine's bottom bunk I hopped in each night, so I didn't have to sleep in the car outside)