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So after splitting the eyebrow yesterday I didn't surf again, just tired to let it dry out and stick together a bit. Really funny story I found out later though - when I got out bleeding I left the board with a mate on the beach, he then paddled out on my board, ducked dived a wave and split his eyebrow too! Same one, same place Hahahaha. Bad luck continued today aswell - one of the other academy guys went out in a different group this morning and took his short board to the face = broken nose and split the skin. I feel lucky compared to him for sure, looked horrible! Mine is getting better already (hense the photo).
The other story which is a bit more worrying is the shark story... Same guy that broke his nose was surfing a local beach a few weeks ago when he saw a fin and then the body of about a 10ft long bull shark swim straight at him, then drive under as it got to him and disappear... Scary as hell, shows what's around here.
Anyway, on a lighter note - today was the first day of the academy. All us new lot went down to the front of the camp site (Arrawarra as I Havnt named it yet) and were watched surfing by 2 instructors. We were split into 'surfed before' and 'not surfed before'.
I was obviously in the 'top' group with about 7 others, and am probably joint top with one other Swedish guy which is all cool. I apparently ticked all of the criteria about from the one about 'stance' so I was given some useful tips on that.
Just back in my room now before lunch. After lunch I have fitness I think, but it is absolutely hammering it down with rain so don't know what we will be doing...
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Lorene Your hnostey is like a beacon