What a morning!! I got up at 7am and the swell did not disappoint! Despite my back being pretty sore I went for a 3 hour surf, and had what was one of the best sessions of my life.
When we first went out it was about 4ft and clean, and the longer we were out the better it got. After about an hour it had increased to about 6ft and was just barreling wave after wave on the same peak. I watched Lenny almost get a 6ft barrel which was craaaazy, wish I had a camera! I had a couple of really really good waves, but also got worked pretty badly on a few.
By back was much worse after, surprise surprise, so Rhys had a look at it and all the muscles are cramped up so no wondered I cant move/breathe comfortably. I have taken some pain killers and put tiger balm on it so im hoping for the best..
The swell is meant to get bigger for the rest of the day too so could be super impressive this afternoon..
After lunch I spoke to Tom (who will soon be in charge of the camp) and he has told me I definately have a job working as a Grommie for food and accomadation when I finish academy! I'm so pleased to actually have something sorted for when I'm finished and it's not all up in the air any more! I didn't push my luck and ask yet, but hopefully I will be able to do some work as an instructor too..
After chatting with Tom; Lasse, Paul and I walked over to Mulawarra to check the surf (I just took Lenny's camera as my back was too sore to even think about surfing). It was big like Arrawarra in the morning but pretty onshore and messed up. We watched for a while before going back to Arrawarra where we watched the Instructors surf...once again I was amazed at how good Morgan is (hopefully getting the photos off Lenny's camera with proof).
After dinner I chatted to Ross and Dan for quite a while about working here/future plans which was interesting, then watched Oceans 11, with Linda and Ross.
In bed now as we have a whole day of First Aid and Ocean Mission assessment tomorrow, for the first part of our Instructors licence. Before I wasnt worried about the ocean mission, but with the huge swell which is around and my back really not being so great I am not looking forward to it one bit...
(Photo - Lasse, Ross, Eilgh, Maria and Kirsty chilling on academy porch).