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The heavy horses are clomping around at first light. We plan our route for an ostrich farm near Parthenay, which will be nearly a four hour drive even if we circle St Nazaire and Nantes without delays.
The first part goes smoothly but traffic gets very heavy on the Nantes peripherique. Snoopy says north and east, but the signs say hold ups for the Paris exit in 7km so we opt to go on the west and south sides. This makes Snoopy cross and he keeps trying to reroute us so we clear his mind.
Within a few miles we encounter hold ups on this route too but never still for long. We leave the motorway early and roads are easier but we are still relying on Ali's map-reading as Snoopy still gravitates to faster roads.
At St Lumine de Clisson we stop for lunch and find we are still over two hours from the passion so we seek some alternatives. Continuing through the main town of Clisson roadworks and a one way system cause problems but eventually we sort it out and get on our desired road.
Near Boussay we see signs for a service point and decide to slop out and refill. The service point is €2, but only accepts tokens. Is anything else coming to frustrate our day? Thankfully, some French motorhomers sell us a token and we are soon on our way again.
Time creeping away, Ali finds an aire much nearer. It sounds too good to be true, right by a river with a bar nearby and we won't be surprised if all twenty pitches are taken.
Half an hour later we are on the last two miles, single track road, behind a tractor. But when we reach the aire there are only four vans, and it really is picturesque.
We park on perfectly level grass in the shade of some trees [27C] and have a much needed cup of tea with a strawberry tartlet.
After tea we wander along the little weir and out into the countryside. The fields have all been cut and are scattered with huge rolls of hay, and the hedges are full of wildflowers and birdsong. As kids it seemed every summer day was like this.
Returning to the aire we find a couple more vans have arrived.
Early evening the peace is broken as cars pull in and noisy young groups start enjoying their Saturday evening, playing games in the bar, sitting out dinking, or jumping into the weir. We abandon any ideas of going over for a drink or meal. Instead Ali makes beefburgers and cooks with oven chips.
It's still a lovely place to be even if not quite a serene as it promised to be earlier.
Often as not, when we change or adapt our plans things still work out well.
The ostrich farm can wait for another day.
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