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Still no sign of life in the Passion so we leave with a free stop and drive 11 miles to Auxerre [pronounced Oh-sair]
The camperstop parking is right next to the river, separated only by a row of horse chestniut trees laden with spiky green pods. Auxerre is built on a hill overlooking the river Yonne. We go across the main road bridge, with a fine view of the cathedral, past the statue of Paul Bert, and walk along the opposite bank to the Tourist info for a map. The Yonne runs wide here with many pleasure boats tied up on the banks. There is a shady promenade with a set of fountains laid in the pavement of a small square. Kids scream and squeal as they run in and out of the water spouts.
We follow the road up to the cathedral entrance and Ali goes in through the small door. There are some lovely stained glass windows but otherwise it quite plain and restrained. Continuing up hill we arrive at the clock tower, and arched gateway with a decorative 24 hour face. All around are timbered buildings, with the woodwork painted in different colours, as is the wattle and daub plaster. Some of the oldest timber is unpainted showing a chocolate brown splintering surface. All quite charming, as are the numerous, life-size painted statues dotted around on benches and street corners.
We find a terrace and enjoy a steak lunch and by the time we finish the temperature is up to 34C so we return to the riverbank and sit in the shade. A riverboat office is nearby so we ask about accessibility but the man is vague and the boats look like they have steps so we give it a miss.
Later we find a bar for a cold soft drink, right opposite a statue of St Nicolas. We think about looking arond more of the town but it is even hotter and stagnant away from the river.
When we return to the van it's hot enough inside to roast a turkey and the fridge has made its final decision to not work at all. Everything inside has gone to mush so we need some waste sacks.
There is a supermarket opposite the camperstop so we tundle over and luxuriate beside the chiller cabinets picking out a few items for supper. Then we find a 12v cooler box for €44 and wedge that into the trolley.
Back at the van Ali is devastated and cries her way though digging out all of the wasted food and chucking in the bins.
After all that we are so hot we don't really enjoy our prawn salad, so it's a niggly end to a hot and bothersome day in what might otherwise have been a lovely town to visit.
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