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Owls.
Last night the woods echoed to every twoit-twoo, woohoohoo and screech imaginable. It was lovely hearing them so close and very courteous that they all hooted in English.
This morning vans are moving out before 08:00 but we're in no rush and have a lazy morning watching the river ebb out, before we set off at noon.
All we have planned is a gentle drive around the pink granite coast. We did the same last year, it's a pleasant drive with a good bit of coastal road and plenty of stopping places. At Louannec we see a boulangerie and sandwicherie so stop to get sandwiches for lunch. Ali comes back with our lunch and a big grin on her face. The reason for her giggles? Beside the main shop is an awning with a drive-through baguetterie. Drivers ring the bell, through the hatch is threaded a bare baguette and the hand takes in a euro.
We stop in a layby at St Quay Perros to eat them, looking across the bay to Perros Guerric. Further around is a viewpoint looking out to the islands. One has a white cap, like snow, which we take to be seabirds nesting, as it wasn't white last time we saw it.
Another stop for scenery at St Michel en Greve with its large bay and shallow water. On the beach a man is flying a kite which is shaped like a bow-tie. He is very skilled, spinning it just above the sand then landing it gently on one point, flying it horizontally a few feet up and flicking perfect quarter or half turns and generally amazing us with his control.
The nature of this coast means it is mostly campsites, there are few aires and they tend to be close to the main road. Plus the few attractive ones are likely to be full.
We opt for a Passion at Plougat-Guerand, a cidrerie 500m off the main road and very quiet. When we arrive at 15:50 there is a note on the door which translates as 'Back at 3:30'. Two cars of prospective customers pull in and thoughts of Chablis pop up but ten minutes later the owners arrive and the shop opens. We park as instructed and wait for the other customers then Ali goes in to buy some cidre; 3 bottles for €12 seems good.
For the rest of the afternoon we also inherit the dog, a daft long-haired collie who won't leave Ali's side, and if Ali stops showing her any attention she sits and grumbles just like our old dog Rosie used to.
Another British couple in a van arrive and park on the other end of the yard as we enjoy the cooler early evening sunshine.
Supper is a pasta-bake and a bottle of cider made with apples from trees just outside our window.
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