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Day 16. To Hornillos des Camino
Day 17. To Castrojeriz
No wifi again yesterday so again 2 days.
The guide book describes the town of Castrojeriz as a sleepy town with a pop of 600 who seem to be permanently occupied with siesta except during the garlic festival in July. However, it has been quite lively all afternoon & we will have to sleep with earplugs as we are just a few feet from the local bar and it doesn't seem about to shut down. The picture attached is the ruins of a castle established in the 9th century.
We are on the start of the Meseta coming out of Burgos and it goes for 9 walking days to Leon. Very little elevation change, little shade especially in the 7 days ahead. Known to be a test of a pilgrim's commitment. We have sun for the entire Meseta so Lynn will be making sure we start early.
But beautiful walking in the early morning with the sun starting to lighten the sky behind and the full moon in the sky to the west and the stars shining.
The land is quite rocky and poor here. The crops are all harvested and seem to be hay and grains. Like every part we have seen there are absolutely no fences in this country. Just drainage ditches which define the fields. There are no grazing animals since we left the Pyrenees 2 weeks ago and even there no fences, just bells on the animals. A real contrast to what I have seen in Britain where everything is fenced.
We also continue to be amazed at the houses. Everything is made of stone and is gated and fenced (unlike the fields) and the windows are barred including the second floor. We have not heard of severe crime problems so we don't know if this is cultural or practical. Every little town has half the houses with the roofs fallen in and right beside smart looking places. And there are no homes away from the villages; everyone is in the town. This entire area owes it's being to a bit of farming and to El Camino.
Up-date on the toes as I get no sympathy locally. Left big nail hanging on; right big toe progressively whiter every day. They are all bound so tight they squeak when I walk. Will try to repatriate them to Canada but not sure I can.
It is becoming clear that the morning walk is only half the experience. The best part is the culture of these very historic places which cling to old traditions.
PS: Lynn unable to get into her e-mail so any urgent messages send to me; will advise when problem fixed.
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