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The early light casts lovely colours under the yellow leaved walnut orchard which numbers around 100 trees. Ali and Grete say goodbye to the owners and we set off alongside the Dordogne towards Beynac. Roadwork signs say maximum width 2.2m so we pull into a carpark to think but there is a Municipal Policeman there who tells us it is OK to carry on. The roadworks are narrow but no problem and we find another carpark below the towering chateau at Castelnaud, which is flying a long pennant.
Ali and Grete find a boulangerie and come out with some fancy breads which we will hve later for lunch and a still-warm freshly baked panatonne, some of which we have with coffee.
We drive on to Roche-Gageac where we took a summertime boat ride in 2014. Today it's deserted and we barely notice the houses built into the rocks.
Our plan to stop at Domme causes some frustration; Nick is about to follow the sat nav but sees a 'No Campingcar' sign and drive past the junction, but Grete notes a second turning off the jubction with a blue 'Campingcars allowed' symbol. After some confused faffing around we eventully follow Grete's route. It is poorly signed and the only road leads us out into countryside and up a small winding road to a massive carpark.
We have lunch and the girls wander up the remaining hill into the town. It is quite attractive, cobbly and, being Monday afternoon, completely closed.
From Domme we descend and enjoy a very attractive drive through autumn woods, farmland and alongside the river. In places we are on typical Dordogne rock ledges beside the river.
We reach Martel and head for the service point, but the water taps have been removed since we were here in August, so we drive down to the aire and are the only two vans in.
Tonight is 'super-moon', the moon is closer to earth than anytime in the last 70 years. Luckily ythesky clears and we have a great view of it with the seas cearly visible and a purple aura.
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