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This morning it's raining heavily, postponing our walk into the old part of Beaune until the afternoon.
Through the rain Nick's curiosity is aroused when, in the space of an hour, four Tesla cars drive through the carpark. Having never seen one of these ultra-expensive electric supercars before, four, each of different nationality, is a bit strange. Google reveals that Beaune has a Tesla Super-charge point where they can recharge their batteries quickly.
It's a pleasant 5 minute walk past the former tanneries and over the stream until we come to the Hotel-Dieu in the historic centre of this Celtic town.
The Hotel-Dieu was built between 1451-59 under the orders of Nicolas Rolin, then Chancellor of Burgundy, as a place where the sick and ill would be cared for by holy sisters at the expense of the hospital. The roof is a fairy tale gingerbread structure of coloured tiles and the rest of the buiding is sturdy and elegant but not ostentatious. In so many ways it is the model and forerunner of hospitals and healthcare to this day. The main hospital has thirty beds arranged 15 each side and laid end to end. Each has blood red bedspreads, with curtains on either side and treatment corridor on the outside of each row, and each bed is accompanied by a chair and table with pitcher, goblet and blood letting dish. The first Sister, Alardine Gasquierre, was strict and severe and the rules were soon modified to give other Sisters more flexibility. New arrivals were assessed by doctors and those seen as contagous or terminal were put into other rooms [wards]. Barber-Surgeons were called for blood letting and trepanning, where the skull is drilled allowing access to the brain. Tools of their trade are on display to make the squeamish cringe. A modestly ornate chapel was built for the Sisters and over the years a physic-garden and apothecary factory were included, with Sisters being trained as apothecaries. The last patients were treated here as recently as 1984. The history and exhibits are fascinatingly brought to life by a comprehensive audio guide.
Beane's other claim to fame is the wine capital of Burgundy. Everywhere there are signs for outlets and tasting houses and apparently millions of bottles lie under the city in cellars, gathering dust and improving their vintage. The most exclusive is a 1904 AOC, price undisclosed.
There is a slightly Parisien feel around the place; some fancy fashion, upmarket patisseries and charcutiers, art shops and shoe shops with price tags approaching a week's wages.
After a walk to the old town arch and past the imposing Hotel de Ville, we find a little bar and sit outside with a couple of beers and a charcuterie platter. As we nibble and watch the world go by, we have rediscovered a phenomenon not seen so far on this trip; the guided tour. The rolled umbrella leading a crocodile of obedient visitors two by two by two, until Nick zig-zags down the centre of a German platoon for fun.
Early evening we return to the van and enjoy a quiet drink as the dark is coming noticably earlier now.
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Roger Fletcher Get your bronzy gear out as you're in for a hot week !