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Day 23 Calvor to Portomarín. 27.5 km/17 miles. A fair amount of up and down. We're still in cow country with beautiful green fields and rock walls. About 3 miles into our day, we went through the town of Sarria, where Clare began her Camino 2 years ago through Hante/Eagle's Nest, so lots of things were familiar to her today. We stopped to have lunch at a country cafe, and lots of familiar faces were there--Max and Gracia, Mark from Prague, Ted from Canada. When we arrived in Portomarín, we weren't sure where to stay--there were lots of open albergues--more pilgrims and more places to stay because many people start their Camino in Sarria. To get the official pilgrim credential, you have to walk at least 100 km, which we passed just after lunch today. Anyway, we passed on the Galicia government albergue called a Xunta, where we've stayed for the past 2 nights--they are clean but bare bones--no wifi or cooking/kitchen utensils. We settled on a place that wasn't in our book but looked nice. Turns out that Pasiño a Pasiño Albergue is new since June--jackpot! We have a room just for us 3, a supermarket next door, we're washing our clothes, and have real sheets on our beds!!! The best part is that there's the young guy running the place, his parents are hanging out, offering us some of their homemade "firewater"--think moonshine, and other people from the neighborhood stopped in to chat. I really love the people and lifestyle in Spain. We were in the grocery store and the checking out lady was doing something back in the store. We took our things up to check out, and another man came up behind us with his things and said, "Señora, cash register! Pilgrims are waiting!" And everyone laughed.
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