Much like last year's quest for the best gelato in Florence, this year we're searching for the best French onion soup, or as they call it here, soupe a l'oignon gratinee. When we visited Paris 5 years ago, we stumbled on a little cafe, Le Kleber,on Avenue Kleber near the Arc De Triomphe and the Champs Elysees. The onion soup was the best ever, other-worldly, and to-die-for! It had the right mix of carmelized onions, beef broth, wine, herbs (especially thyme), croutons, and gruyere cheese on top that was slightly singed, but not burnt. Anyhow, that is the standard we have lived by ever since; it was a "10".

So, we've tried a few onion soups on this visit. At an authentic Bistrot near our apartment, Chez Paul, we tasted a pretty good onion soup, maybe a "7". At a cafe in St-Germain, La Luge, it was okay, maybe a "5". But, at Le Kleber, this time, it was in a class by itself, probably a "9" or "9.5". They seemed to cut back on the herbs a little, making it a bit less exquisite than the first time, but still wonderful. It's definitely worth the visit to Paris just to enjoy this marvelous soupe a l'oignon gratinee, sitting at a little outdoor table, on a magnificent September evening at sunset, on Avenue Kleber. (See "Photos" for pics of Le Kleber and La Luge)

Adieu,

R&S