I have a feeling Galicia is going to be very beautiful but a lot of seagulls trying to rip off pilgrims because this is where most people start their pilgrimage. You only need to do the last 100kms to have 'officially' done the pilgrimage. The second hand on my watch 12.50€ watch has broken but i'm glad because i only look at the digital time and the hand get in the way. I hope the other 2 will fall off. Walking during the morning is the best time. The fluffy dandelion week things that you blow away are covered in frost and look like white balls of sporey marshmallow. The sun is coming over the mountains and Galicia is very lush and green. I'm walking beside small rocky cliff things with ivy and moss and fern and hanging grass. There's a little stream running beside the path. I think the snow's been melting and all the water is coming down from them mountains pretty fast. Steam is coming off the grass as the sun defrosts it. Above is a high slope and over the top the sun is highlighting the trees and leaves. There's cow s*** everywhere. The girls from Melbourne, Karen and Angela, say that Galicia is stunning but is FULL of cow poo. They said that when they walked 2 years ago at this time, it poured the entire time and they walked 130kms through a sludgy mud/cow poo mix. The odd tree is blossoming and there are little streams everywhere running down to meet bigger streams running down to meet rivers and waterfalls all through the region. I need to go to the toilet but i can't stop stopping to write because it's such a spectacular place. Mariana the dutch lady, says it reminds her of Tuscany. It's like paradise. If you hold your nose. But if feel lucky to be walking through this. This is kind of a reward for the last couple of weeks of hard walking. Some Dickhead has left a coke can in a teeny window sill of a teeny chapel in a teeny town. I have to empty it and take it with me. I'm not being religious at all, i just can't believe someone would be so disrespectful at a chapel that is about 2m squared. Suprisingly, Mary is in the middle holding little baby cheese with big cheeses standing next to her (now I'M being disrespectful). I spoke to an old lady in the village tending to the chickens and said that this area is very beautiful and she said that yes it is but extremely hard work. The are stone walls all the way along the path with ivy and moss growing from them. And bits of quartz hanging out and trees making a canopy over the top. Cow bells dinging and cucko bird and a old shepherd with half his teeth missing is reclining on a bit of grass and singing some old spanish song loudly while his sheep eat grass and the leaves off low trees. I have a quick chat with him when i see that he is not trying to sell me anything. In the albergue, i'm trying to wash the ever-present stink out of my clothes. It reminds me of a scene in Macbeth where, after killing Macbeth, Lady Macbeth is sitting on a concrete floor hysterically washing her hands to remove the blood that she imagines to be there. I'm not imagining it though. My clothes do STINK. Today is one of the best days yet. I see a green lizard with a blue head. It look suspiciously like the green plants with blue flowers that it ran into. Sometimes the ground is pearlescent and sparkles here. Just before i arrive in Sarria, a man is walking out of town with a white and caramel coloured shetland pony. It is so cute. I want one. I stay in an albergue where, by chance, i have my own room. I'm feeling a bit hermitish a the moment so i stay in and have a big salad niçoise.