Never experiences anything like this train before. Small cramped bunk beds on each side of the train and a toilet thy smells like hell. 12 hours on this train is going to be hell. Boarded train at half 7pm & it left the station at half 8pm. Managed to fall asleep with help of my extra pillow, eye shades & earplugs at around 9pm and woke up on and off through-out the night due to the smelly locals and their snoring and walking up and down the corridors. 5hours sleep in total but feeling much better. I got the top bunk which I was glad of so I was out of the way. I hope I never have to sleep on this kind of train again. I'm still smiling and laughing though because I'm still alive...just! And I'm looking forward to a proper bed tonight & a nice hot shower!!!! It's almost 7am in India now & we will soon be getting off the train in Daramasala. Hope everyone back home is okay - love you all xx