This morning I woke up about 8ish and had the standard fruit salad and cornflakes for breakfast. Having stuck the fins back in my board and sorted my stuff out I went off to Ulu's to check the surf. From the lookout at the top of the hill I saw about 6/7 guys out and it looked really fun. I quickly parked up the scooter, negotiated the old women who relentlessly try and sell you t-shirts etc and ran down the steps super excited for a surf.
Having paddle out via the cave and sat in the lineup it was about 3-4ft with the occasional bigger sets. It was a bit more choppy and onshore than it looked from the cliffs, but still fun. As it was a bit choppy and the swell was quite lumpy it was really hard to judge the waves, where they were going to break and if they would just close out. For the first 30/40 minutes I got more and more frustrated that I couldn't get it dialled, and had only got 1/2 crappy ones. I got fed up and just took the first biggest wave that came though...big mistake. I went over the falls and got absolutely pounded, how I didn't get cut up on the reef I have no idea.
I surfed for over 2 hours and towards the end actually got some really fun ones. I think a combination of being pretty out of practise and surfing there for the first time made it hard work, but more than worth it.
Coming back in through the cave was sketchy as hell! The tide had come right in, the current was running quite hard, and the waves were just rebounding off the rocks and exploding off one another. As I was paddling through I was bricking it, and thought it was just a matter of time until I slammed into the side I the cave.
Somehow I paddled right through the cave to the top and got out uninjured. However a combination of having knakered arms and buzzing adrenaline was making me shaky and horrible. Even having walked all the way back up to the scooter, driven to Single Fin for a post surf Fanta and watched the others still out at Ulus was I shaky.
I then went back to Leggies for lunch, and chilled out reading by the pool for the rest of the arvo. When the sun went down I had some dinner, then I wasn't feeling great, so I just sat outside my room and kept myself to myself. I ended up looking through a lot of my travelling photos which were on Facebook, and was reminiscing with myself about where I had been/what I had seen and done. It was very wierd looking back over the last 11 months, knowing that all my travels are coming to an end..
(Photo - Fruit salad mid arvo snack by the pool. Healthy and just tastes SO good!).