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Dolac market is a 20 minute walk away, downhill, from our apartment, not far from the main square. Growers sell produce from all over Croatia and the choice seems endless. The fruit and veg stalls are outside and underneath is this vast array of meat, pickles , bread, pastries and dairy products. Strawberries are sold by the kilo here, at $2 a kilo- we are on our second kilo!
Literally, it is a feast for the senses, stallholders toting their wares, buskers and queues of people at their favourite stalls. We bought goats cheese, fresh bread , sauerkraut and salami to snack on at home. There is also a flower market nearby and of course a fish market. All this is ringed by cafés and restaurants offering even more temptation! I am in seventh heaven. It's just as good sitting outside, drinking strong coffee and watching the hustle and bustle....
I had forgotten my glasses , so I took our goodies back home but managed to lose my way. It took forty minutes instead of twenty and was all uphill ! But that's okay, it's a perfect way to burn off all these calories! We walk everywhere and go where we fancy, soaking everything up , never knowing what we will find.
Saturday afternoon we visited the Archaeological museum which was really interesting. There are several important sites in Croatia which have yielded a treasure trove of artefacts. It is difficult to choose what to see next because there are so many galleries and museums to choose from. We simply stop at a cafe, sample their wine and local beer, then decide....
In the evening, after a thirty minute walk, we found a Dalmatian restaurant which had really great reviews in The Lonely Planet. It was certainly worth the walk, Geoff ordered fish with Mediterranean vegetables and I opted for the beef gnocchi in a truffle sauce. I was curious to see what truffles tasted like. For starters we both had "Fat Bread" . The waiter described it as the bread you use to dip in the juices after cooking, served with their homemade olive oil. Imagine our surprise when we were presented with slices of bread smeared with fat and sprinkled with salt and paprika!
It was so delicious dipped in olive oil, a taste sensation.... (I'll be saving the fat from the roast from now on) .But there was more to come, the gnocchi was the best I have ever had and I am now addicted to truffles... each mouthful was savoured. Geoff's fish was sweet, like flounder and we were both very happy chappies on our way home.
Sundays in Zagreb are something else. Most shops are closed but everyone comes out to meet and greet in the squares . At one stage, a group of mounted soldiers in national costume rode through the crowd, followed by about twenty on foot, marching to the beat of drums! They lined up, performed some manoeuvres , then marched off, again through the crowd.... Prior to that, we were treated to folk singing from a group in costume. I have to remind myself not to walk around with my mouth open all the time!
Earlier in the day, we caught a tram to the outer suburbs to visit the Hrelić Flea Market which is the largest in Croatia. It was a twenty minute walk along the levy banks of the Sava River and what an experience that turned out to be! Part of the market was dedicated to people selling their cars and further on, were the stallholders. Most had their goods on concrete slabs and a few had trestle tables. There was a mish mash of secondhand clothes, toys, junk and knick knacks. A real trash and treasure, lots of bargaining going on, lots of Roma, (two tourists) , lots of shouting and of course, interesting snacks to take away- a large round donut pastry type thing smothered with (vrhnje) sour cream and folded in half-yummo....
We would have loved to have bought some of the urns and old bowls etc but they won't fit in our suitcase! Well, you can't have everything...
The Sava River has been flooding upstream but we have been fine here in Zagreb. Yesterday afternoon, the rain disappeared and the forecast is for mild sunny weather for the near future.
What will today hold? .?
- comments
Leila I love the descriptions of the markets - they make my mouth water! I remember Dida used to wipe slices of bread on the lamb on the spit to collect the drippings - a NZ version of fat bread?? XXX
Raewyn Oh that food sounds so yummy, just as well you have many hills to walk up and down.
Ros So glad the weather is being kind to our intrepid travellers. Love to you both. xx
sue I'm salivating as I read!!! xxx