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Geoff did a great job driving from Zagreb yesterday, it's always hair raising driving out of a city you are unfamiliar with. It turned out that Varaždin was booked out due to a FOOD MARKET from the surrounding districts so we managed to secure a room in a house about 30kms north. What a bonus that was! We made it to Donji Kraljevec without incident, no mean feat, I tell you, and our hosts , Ana and Ivan gave us a warm welcome . We lost no time in settling ourselves outside with a well deserved beer and wine in the balmy early evening heat. Even though Ana and Ivan do not speak English, we had a wonderful chat with the help of a dictionary to boost my Croatian and of course lots of sign language.
Rudolf Steiner was born in the house adjoining which was a surprise and a steady stream of people from Croatia, Germany and Switzerland visit this modest abode tucked away in the Croatian countryside. We found one entry in the Visitors' book from New Zealand and we lost no time adding Glenlyon to the mix.
We ate at the local restaurant later that evening, in solitary splendour! Such a change from the buzz of Zagreb but a chance to learn a little about this 16th century village from the charming young man who served us. As luck would have it, Donji Kraljevec was famous for breeding a special type of work horse which is immortalised on the local emblem.
Thanks to Ivan's advice, we decided to explore Medimurje County by taking the "slow" road which led us on an enchanting journey through the most beautiful countryside. Medimurje roughly translates as "Island between two rivers" the Mure to the north and the Drava to the south. It is picture book perfect, villages dotted throughout the Pannonian plains, surrounded by fields of corn, wheat, potatoes and more. Folk riding their bicycles unhurriedly along the lanes, some doubling children in front of them, all with a ready smile as we passed.
There were flowers everywhere , in window boxes , climbing fences and adorning yards. Every home was so neat and tidy and we were surprised by the profusion of peony roses. Every time we rounded a bend, we gasped at further idyllic scenes, it truly was astounding.
The road wound it's way into the gentle hills and we stopped at Sveti Martin, a thermal spa centre, tucked away in the forest. We spent a relaxing hour or so there, sharing the pools with less than twenty people. I have to say how wonderful it was to go somewhere so special and therapeutic that is affordable to all, only $8 dollars entry, walking sticks discarded beside the pool, lots of shared laughter and bonhomie.
Of course we stopped for a late lunch afterwards, having snatched a burek from the bakery hours earlier. There is a strong Hungarian influence here, lots of schnitzels and rich sauces.... Geoff sampled a turkey schnitzel with a creamy mushroom sauce and I had stuffed turkey kebabs! But the highlight was the discovery of "uljo crno" or black oil.OMG... Sooo delicious and made from pumpkin seeds, what a taste sensation! Red wine vinegar, olive oil and black oil were provided for us to dress our cabbage salad at will, what can I say?
Ivan and his son were unloading hay when we returned. We shared Dale's story of "no speak English" with them and we all roared with laughter! Our last night was spent sharing wine, home made salami and pickles with Ana, Ivan and their family.
More magic!
- comments
Ros Oh Theresa, what a rich and tasty word-picture you paint! As you journey in that exotic place, So Dave and I take another journey - that of being, for the first time, grandparents of a beautiful granddaughter, Elke Jean Hart. We're in heaven - and they live in Castlemaine! Keep being as alive and as joyful as you always are.... and love to Geoff. xxRos