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Living the dream in splendid, rustic isolation was fabulous for about a week. Flushed with success after preparing our first meal on the open fire and spoiled with Milena's home cooked goodies, we eased into the languid Mediterranean lifestyle. The ever changing vista of the mountains across the sea never ceasing to enthrall.
There was no shortage of idyllic spots along the coastline to laze in the sun and swim in the warm, sparkling turquoise waters. . Afterwards, or in between, a short drive to a Konoba for a salata od hobotnice (octopus salad) or čevapi, a glass of vino bijelo and a bottle of pivo (beer) and then home to light the fire for a late dinner, eaten by candlelight under the grapevine. We bought sardines from the market, prepared them outside, (battling the European wasps) and served up with freshly picked herbs and salad.
Early in the week, our friends from Bol, Stefania and Rolf, took us to an amazing seaside restaurant accessible only by sea. The trip there was exhilarating, the wind in our faces, the sea like glass and the sun shining down. Lunch was "Škampi spageti " which was unforgettable, served in a rich sauce with fresh dark bread to soak up the juices... Škampi are very popular here, similar to a tiny crayfish and loaded with flavour.
Once we were back in Bol and the boat secured , it was everyone overboard for a swim! What a day!
Makarska is only an hour's ferry ride away and we spent a very pleasant afternoon there a few days later, wandering the streets of the old town and visiting the museum. I was thrilled to find a book documenting the history of the Dalmatian people who left this area for New Zealand in the early 1900's, my grandfather amongst them.
Late last week, the weather took a turn for the worse, a couple of cloudy days and the lukewarm shower turned into a cold dribble out of the hand held shower head.... Fortunately, we were able to use the shower in an apartment five minutes drive away, although still hand held.... Then the "Yugo" began to blow with a vengeance, bringing thunder and lightning and torrential rain ! Water blew in through the window jambs, under the door and through the roof! We mopped that up and were left with lights which went into strobe mode every ten minutes... Needless to say, we had an early night.
Miro, our host, did drop in earlier, and proclaimed the atmosphere "very romantic..." and suggested we use one light .
We weren't feeling too romantic the following morning when we awoke to complete darkness , scrambling to make the 6am ferry for our trip to Imotski! But it was worth it. The drive to Imotski was so picturesque, a tunnel 7 kms straight through the mountain and then we started the climb, the views were magnificent. Our destination was Jezera Modra, or the "blue lake". It is a natural phenomena of the area and is at the bottom of a huge crater. A pathway has been carved out of the side so people can walk down almost to the bottom, then it is a scramble over the boulders to the lake's edge. Halfway down, we saw two soccer nets jammed haphazardly in a corner against the rock face. It wasn't until later that we learned that an annual soccer match is played on the lake floor when the water dries up every summer!
Our legs were quivering by the time we made it to the top but a shot of strong Dalmatian coffee soon fixed that!
We drove to Mostar in Bosnia for lunch and a look around but it has become totally geared towards hordes of tourists, so much more so since our last visit two years ago. But it was an interesting drive entering Bosnia from this direction, such a contrast from last year when we went to Bihać in the north. This time there was lots of building happening and the area seemed quite prosperous.
On the way back, just outside Imotski, we noticed a sign saying "Jovića Most" which means Yovich bridge! Of course we detoured several kilometres inland and a local directed us to this old stone bridge in the heart of the countryside. What a thrill it was! Imotski is where the Yovich family are rumoured to have originated.... curiouser and curiouser....
Again a day to be remembered.
Back home on the mountain, we fell into bed exhausted, too tired to deal with strobe lights. The next morning we decided to call it a day. Cloud cover was forecast for the next few days which equated to dubious electricity. We bade Miro and the majestic mountain view a fond farewell.
A quick search of Airbnb found a fisherman's cottage on the western side of the island and here we are in Bobovišćaharbour until Friday. We so appreciate the hot shower and reliable electricity. I have so much more insight into what my forebears experienced- so much to dwell upon.
Geoff is the driver extraordinaire! We accidentally took the back way here and the road was sooo narrow and twisting with those sheer Dalmatian drops ( oh for the plains of Slavonia).
Having survived that, he then had to navigate his way along the waterfront and manoeuvre into a tight parking spot! Yay! Go Geoff !
- comments
Donna Tou are really experiencing it all Theresa & Geoff. True intrepid travelers! Thanks for the access to your adventures.
Lu Way too rustic for this girl I tell you!!!, but what an adventure!! On the home straight now.....home to the family and new abode. Take care. xxxooooo
Leila A recipe for dark bread? :)
Theresa I took care of that in Batina!
Joel Mmmm. Skimpy sounds good.