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Highways tend to be a bit restrictive ,which is why we chose the back roads to Osijek. Very soon, we found ourselves in fairy tale land again, houses with steep tiled roofs, some red, some shingle and the occasional one of thatch. It's hard to imagine the villages blanketed in deep snow when we are "glowing" in 36 degrees. I had no inkling that summers would be so hot
Fields of maize are now interspersed with sunflowers and harvest has begun in some areas. There are smaller cultivated plots near the villages and wooden storage sheds built up off the ground stand empty. Beautiful big trees line the road through the villages, walnuts on one side and apples on the other. The walnuts are still green but the apples are bright red, I thought at first they were pomegranates. Walnuts are very popular in Croatia because people make a homemade liqueur from them called orahovac.
Sometimes the roads narrow and we need to be careful as there are drains beside them to prevent flooding. Mind you, give me a two foot drain on the plains over a sheer drop on the Dalmatian coast any day! Each village is as charming as the next , window boxes are filled with trailing geraniums and I feel as though we are in Fiddler on the Roof country! It is very quiet, shutters are drawn to keep out the heat of the sun and there are few people about. It is hard to imagine this tranquility destroyed by war but in every village, there is a sobering reminder, walls sprayed with bullet holes or houses which are just a shell, abandoned . Most of the houses have been repaired but it is always a shock to see one which has been left a crumbling ruin.
Jasmina and her partner Vladimir gave us a warm welcome when we arrived at their bed and breakfast in Osijek. We are living in the fortress in the old town. Again, huge doors open onto courtyards which are another world. The walls are really thick and it is cool inside. The Drava river is a short walk away and we waste no time , joining the crowds for their evening promenade.
Our stay here has been so interesting, there is a strong Austro Hungarian influence as evidenced by the architecture and the food. The specialty is fish paprikash but I have had to settle for fish soup as this dish has to be made for two. The main fish eaten here is carp and catfish which Geoff will not try for love nor money! The soup wasn't that delicious to be honest but I think it was the restaurant, not the dish... I certainly intend to try it again somewhere else...
This is Vukovar Srijem county, and it is rich in ancient history. We visited Vinkovci which is the oldest town in Europe -8000 years. We had the museum to ourselves and spent far longer there than we thought, totally fascinated by the archaeological treasures. Our next stop was Vukovar, on the Danube. We had lunch by the river- fresh crusty bread, kulen, a specialty smoked salami which the area is famous for, marinated capsicums, turkey schnitzel and potato salad, washed down with local beer and fabulous white wine. While we ate, there was a continuous stream of people being ferried across the river to swim on the sandy beach on the other side...
Vukovar museum was badly damaged during the war but has been restored to its former glory. We explored the town's rich history displayed on three floors and couldn't believe our luck having a museum to ourselves again! Classical music played in the background, it's a wonder we made it out before closing!!!
The Kopački Rit wetlands are the largest wetlands in Europe and Croatia is very proud of its reputation in conservation management. It is a credit to them....
We happened to meet a former director of the park who was instrumental in establishing the strategic plan for the reserve and she treated us to a passionate two hour history of the park from its inception to the present day.
This has been so typical of our time in Osijek, we become so fascinated by what we discover that we need extra time to experience it all. This trip, we book as we go , leaving us free to wander at will.
I will let the photos do the rest of the talking.....
- comments
Lu Hard to imagine being in a place so many years old! New Zealand is just a Pup!! Keep up the enjoyment! xxoo
Leila It sounds like you've met some lovely people on the way! And the food sounds amazing - have you found that the markets are different in late summer? Did you see any good birds??? :) x