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The alarm went off at 3am on Sunday and we were packed and on our way in no time to catch the 4.30 ferry to Split. You could count the people on one hand in the huge lounge and we were able to stretch out and resume our sleep for most of the way . Two short macchiatos before we docked and we were primed and ready to roll. Breakfast was a meat borek on the run as we strolled around the Green Market looking for some cheese and cherries to take with us to Brać, the largest of the Dalmatian islands and a scant hour away by ferry.
Last year we met a couple, Stefania and Rolf, when they visited Lastovo. It was one of those times when everything clicked and the four of us became friends. We stayed in touch and when they toured Australia in November, we were able to catch up with them in Glenlyon and Melbourne. Now we were off to stay with them in their holiday house on Brać...
It was just as if we had seen them yesterday and we seemed to pick up our conversation where we had left off! Stefania is Croatian and Rolf is Swiss and both she and Rolf speak English and German as well. Her sister, Slava, was also visiting from Switzerland but only spoke Croatian and German so it made for lively and amusing conversation! After an early dinner of delicious Peka (lamb and vegetables cooked under a metal bell on coals) , we were invited to play "Boccia".
Geoff and I had puzzled over these concrete rectangles we had seen on our travels and couldn't figure out what they were....the first one we saw was on Dugi Otok and then the next day there was a huge pile of sand dumped in it! I thought it was perhaps a sandpit for the tourists' children to play in but no, it was a Boccia court, an integral part of Croatian and Southern Mediterranean life!
What a great game it is! We laughed and laughed... Slava and I teamed up against Stefania and Geoff and truly, language is no barrier to having fun! Geoff has turned out be a natural which made for lively competition! Last night we played again until we couldn't see the ball in the dark. It looks like I will be sectioning off part of the arena when I get home folks!!!
Stefania and Rolf live on a hill overlooking the sea, twenty minutes walk from the village of Bol. It is very picturesque and was once a prosperous wine making centre. The whole island was covered in vineyards but what makes it really interesting is the huge piles of stones everywhere . In the early days, in an effort to clear land to plant vines, the women picked up all the rocks from the fields, placed them in mounds and planted in the spaces they created. It's quite extraordinary to see. Brać was the premium wine producer in the Mediterranean when the virus wiped out mainland Europe's vineyards during the 1800's. Unfortunately, the virus eventually reached the Islands in the early 1900's and they suffered the same fate.
All the vines had to be removed , the winery in Bol fell into disrepair and was used by the fishermen for storage at one stage . It was completely refurbished and modernised in the nineties and we were lucky enough to be shown through the new facilities by a friend of Stefania's. Today there is also a vintners school above the winery and both are gaining a high international profile. Vines are once again being planted on Brać....
Brać is also famous for its white stone which is exported all over the world. The Romans were quick to take advantage of it and have built numerous villas on the island and throughout the Mediterranean . Even the White House is built from it!
It poured rain this morning, much to everyone's shock and it has been showering all week which is practically unheard of at this time of year! Undeterred , our gracious hosts took us on a tour of the island. The views were spectacular as Rolf navigated the steep and winding roads which gave us a chance to relax and enjoy the scenery for a change....
Our last stop was at a gorgeous village called Pučišća, home to a famous stonemason school. Yet another of their friends showed us through the school which was fascinating. I will let the photos do the talking.
It is with a heavy heart that we leave these wonderful people in the morning, three days of great conversation, lots of fun and laughter, great food, we feel blessed .....
- comments
Leila Sounds fantastic! Were there many tourists on the island? Is boccia like bocce? Xx