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Bobovišće was a breath of sea air. We found ourselves on the top floor of an old fisherman's cottage, right on the water, pure bliss. We stayed the week, swimming, reading, walking and savouring the delicious seafood.
Thursday saw us helping our friends in Bol with their grape harvest. What fun that was and we also caught up with their friends whom we met a couple of years ago in Lastovo. Afterwards, everyone shared an enormous lunch which lasted a couple of hours. Rakija aperitifs were first then a huge pot of "Čobanac ' which is a traditional peasant dish made in one pot.
There are several different versions and we had been treated to this dish in Batina. The dish typically contains three different kinds of meat, a variety of vegetables , herbs spices, tomato purée and red wine. It is traditionally prepared and hung over an open fire and left to cook for several hours while everyone worked in the fields.
Miriam had cooked it the day before and it was delicious, especially after "toiling amongst the vines!!!" It was accompanied by fresh crusty bread and home made red wine from Rolf's previous vintage. There were eight of us at the table and the languages switched between Croatian, German and English making for great conversation with lots of laughter and joking!
Rain had been forecast for Saturday so we thought it would be a good idea to get an early start and drive to Zagreb. NOT!!!! What began as a light drizzle turned into torrential rain with thunder and lightning then, once we were in the mountains, the mist joined the fray! The speed limit was 130 but most cars streaked past us (crawling along at a modest 90 km ) spraying sheets of water in their wake and adding to the nightmarish conditions. It wasn't until the next day when we saw the floods in France and Italy and we couldn't help but wonder if this had been part of that weather system....
We managed to find accomodation in the same district as last time, only one tram stop further but still within a 20 minute walk of the main square. We actually began to feel at home! The next few days were magic. We visited our favourite galleries, discovered two new restaurants and generally settled into Zagreb life. On Sunday, everyone was out in the streets, young and old, all dressed up, walking, meeting friends, buying fruit and vegetables at the Dolac market and packing the outdoor cafés. And of course a myriad of dogs in all shapes and sizes, perfectly behaved of course.
We started our day at the antique market which we had visited last year. It is fantastic. So many things to see. Lots of memorabilia , old books, old jewellery, junk jewellery, crockery, old clothes, you name it.... The stalls are packed tightly together and everyone squeezes past on their quest for a bargain. I even succeeded at bargaining in Croatian, at least, I think I did...
Geoff and I both agree that Zagreb is our favourite city after Melbourne. The people are polite and friendly, the public transport system on the trams is so efficient and easy to use and it is safe. There are crowds of people in the city every night of the week and no matter where you walk or at whatever time, you always feel,safe. In fact the whole of Croatia is like that. Not once did we see any road rage or beeping of horns or shouting. And I freely admit that on a few occasions, (only a few ) we gave them due cause to take us to task on the road! They accepted our apologies with resigned smiles or sometimes a roll of the eyes!
The food is amazing, there are bakeries everywhere selling boreks and pastries and there is a pleasant absence of fast food outlets. As with all of Europe, there is a wealth of museums and galleries if you wish and vast areas outside the city set aside as nature reserves. There seems to be very much a sense of community and equality here.
It is always sad to leave but home is where the heart is... Melbourne here we come!
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Leila Zagreb sounds amazing! You've really had so many contrasts this trip, from the idyllic inland, to laid back Island life, to cultured Zagreb...