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I must admit, I didn't have high hopes for Foncebadon even though it was nearly 1,500 metres up a mountain. It is a village that consists of one street. The street contains about ten buildings : six are ruins, three are farm buildings and the other three are albergues. We had decided the night before that we would try a 'parish' albergue but had our place in line snaffled by a group of Italians. I was ready for a barney, Aliette was not and walked down the road to Monte Irago, a private albergue. It turned out to be one of the best of the trip.
We got a room for 4 people (€25) but on this occasion were not joined by Obelix, Asterix or any other snore-master-generals.
The atmosphere at Monte Irago was great with all the staff really welcoming. It also helped that we had a few familiar faces staying at this 35 bed albergue.
Along with Alini, Leonardo and the chef, we enjoyed a great lunch of vegetable soup followed by huevos y lomo (and the compulsory bucket of local wine). The chef reminded me a lot of Cookie - very passionate about what he does and partial to a few cerveza's !
After a three hour siesta we were back around the table for paella (and more wine). It was Alini and Leonardo 13th wedding anniversary as well so after a little prompt from Aliette the staff brought us all cakes to celebrate.
Wednesdays stage profile was pretty much all downhill. I thought this would be an easy day and so suggested that we walk 29km to the city of Ponferrada. Wrong again - walking downhill proves to be twice as tiring as walking uphill. By the time we reach the beautiful town of Molinaseca I have new words for the nursery rhyme Head, shoulders, knees and toes all relating to the pain I am feeling in each.
Molinaseca is not a big place (population c800) but must have more bars per head than most villages. I thought that one old gent must have spent most of the morning in one as he threw himself off the side of a bridge into the river but it turned out to be a natural pool. Given the heat I am wondering why I put my swimming shorts in the box of excess stuff we posted on to Santiago.
Walking into Ponferrada feels like someone is holding a hair dryer in my face. Hot air after the mornings walk is not what either of us wanted. We shuffle into town and book into Virgen de la Encima hostal. It looks newly renovated and a private bathroom and air conditioning is really appreciated.
Bit of a toss up for tonight's plans: pintxo's here are supposed to be great so beer + lots of food is plan A or........Ponferrada FC host Deportivo La Coruna in a preseason friendly. God truly works is mysterious ways !!
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