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Walking across a country you do get to see some sights. I didn't really want to see the rigor mortis ridden kitty by the roadside in Fromista or the donkeys middle wicket but it can't all be good. What has been nice to see is the farm workers going about their day to day with a complete sense of calm. None of the hustle and bustle if London here.
Today we left real Camino and followed an old Roman road through remote countryside up to Calzadilla de Los Hermanillos. The scenery is slowly changing as we push westward. The first week has been mainly white chalky paths which have cut through oceans of barley, wheat and sunflowers. We are now seeing more greenery, more trees, and the paths are blood orange with clay. Unfortunately the colour changes aren't making it any easier on the feet. The paths are made from thousands of rocks of varying size; as small as garden pea and as big as a monkeys fist. Seven hours of traipsing over them takes it's toll on the sole (& soul !)
We stopped for coffee and empanadas in Sahagun with Leonardo and Alini ("the brazilians") When we were leaving I passed Leonardo his backpack and was amazed at how light it was. I passed him mine an his eyes nearly popped out of his head. Combination of an old(er) bag and carrying too much sh*t. Beginning to think what I can shed en route...
Calzadilla de Los Hermanillos is a small village with a population of around 70. It was our intention to stay at the municipal Albergue but it was closed when we arrived and we needed somewhere to lie down ASAP! We therefore opt for a lovely private Albergue called Via Trajana. After another superb 3 course lunch washed down by a bottle of the local rose we have a quick wander round the tiny village and head back for a siesta. Later that evening we bump into Carlos & Fran, two teachers from Madrid. Fran insists that we have some Cecina which is an delicacy in Leon (a dark cured meat from a cows 'arris which tastes unbelievable.). Not everyday that I will rave about another mans meat but this is an exception !!!
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