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Weds 19.01.11 Rosie Bay to Te Taita A Makoro (Lake Waikaremoana Te Urewera National Park)
Last night it blew storm force until the early hours. The sound in the trees across the lake inlet made a noise equal to any roaring of waves. The lake was roaring, but luckily our inlet was for the most part sheltered. The moon was bright between clouds and from time to time it hammered down with rain. Our brilliantly designed tent survived it all with no leaks and no breakages.
It was a still morning with scattered clouds, bright sunshine, and some intermittent spots of rain. We took our early morning swim/wash in the lake before breakfast and dismantling our sleeping quarters. This was done at great speed when a particularly angry looking cloud approached!!!!! All done and dusted we drove to a pull in where the track marked Lou's Lookout 30mins each way was sign posted. We walked upwards at 75% through forest and thicket, under rocks, through caves following a small dirt track until we came out at the top of the crag where the view over the lake and surrounding valleys was spectacular. This whole vast area of National Park is Maori Land, and the tracks are all their original routes. The only settlements within the park are Maori, that is besides the visitor information centre. There is no made up road here either, so one route only between Wairoa and Rotorua, around 240km, of which 30km each end is 'made up road'.
We continued along the stoney road through the park to another rangers station at Aniwaniwa. It was 12.30 pm as we entered the centre and asked if we could hire a key to a rowing boat on Lake Waikareiti. "Of course" was the answer…"you're just at the right time". It turned out that we got the key, picked up the life jackets, walked the hour up the steep forested track (rising 300m in altitude) to the lake Waikareiti at 2000m. Here we had to launch our metal rowing boat, grab 2 pairs of oars and, according to our NZ safety instructions, make our decision as to whether it was too windy to row, wear our safety jackets and row out towards the island of Rahui for 45 mins ..the long island on the right…there we should see a landing stage…well you will see from the photos that we did find it…not exactly what we English would call a landing stage though. Once docked we were able to climb the ladder and view the sacred Maori lake within an island within a lake within an island!!! We needless to say rowed back (45mins) then walked back down the track to be at the rangers hut for 4.30pm return of the key, oh and collect our deposit. Phew! Damian and I decided that we would not be able to represent GB in the double scull event….very testing on rhythm, patience and timing!!!! The forest was a rich rain forest and along the wy I spotted at least 7 different types of fern not including the tree ferns. The smell of the forest was lovely.
After this we took a short walk to see the Papakorito Falls, 20 m in height but in a very picturesque setting. We drove on for about 45mins along the bumpy road until we came to Te Taita A Makoro Camp site. This was another free camp site, beside a river with a long drop toilet and outside sink. We were the only ones there. Cooked supper, read and slept very well in the quietness and still moonlight night compared with the roaring winds of last night.
Left early this morning as we have to do some mileage today if we are going to get to Wellington at the weekend…we are going via Wanguai the oldest western settlement in NZ and if we can contact Lauren we will pop in and see her and her family for an hour or two.
We travelled for an hour along the bumpy stoney park road passing a dead horse that had fallen off the cliff onto the road last night, a dead possum and several small family herds of cows that were wondering about the road. We pulled in and made a coffee at a picnic spot beside the river (the park equivalent of motorway services as there were bins provided, long drop toilets and an outdoor wash basin, oh and 2 protected concrete areas for lighting your fire. We put our billycan of water on, set up our chairs and enjoyed a coffee break. This was beside Mimiha stream!
Our journey took us back round Lake Taupo where we stoppede for a picnic lunch, and then on through the Tongariro national Park.. We stopped for afternoon tea break at Raetihi, a small settlement on the National bus route. The café there was great, magazines and newspapers to read, internet, good coffee and tea, and very clean. Highly recommend it as a stop…see photo!
The scenary today has been amazing really. From forest to volcanoes, to thermal valleys to rugged grassland, sheep stations cattle stations and now we're in an area not unlike the peak district but with only about one village every 40 miles …so much space. This camp site has a five star kitchen fully equipped even a toaster and a cheese grater. The shower rooms are like little ensuites..so much hot water…what more could a girl want after 4 nights in the forest bathing in lakes and rivers!!!! All is spotless. Have charged up camera, phone, computer, so now all I need is to find some internet access, probably in Wanganui, to upload all these diary notes. Bon nuit.
Thursday 20.01.11 Te Urewera National Park (Te Taita A Makoro Camp) to Whanganui National Park, Raukawa Centre
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