Our Xhosa land experience

We woke up early at the Port St. Johns campsite to head to Mthatha for a visit to the Nelson Mandela Museum, after the whole experience in the museum where our tour guide Brenda took us step by step through Nelson Mandela's entire life story, from childhood to where he first realised his leadership qualities when he first joined the ANC to his time in prison to his presidential inauguration. You realise he is truly one of the most remarkable men of the 21st century, who lived his life selflessly for a better life for his people and his country.

We all walked out of the museum feeling very patriotic only to find that our spare tires had been stolen off the back of the truck. As put so perfectly by Philile, "Mthatha is clearly living up to its reputation they just take", as thatha means take in Xhosa.

After a few hours of sitting on the side of the road waiting for the police, so we could make a statement we had some lunch before finally getting back on the road again to Khaya La Buntu. We arrived in Khaya La Buntu to a warm welcome from the woman of the Dlamini clan dancing and singing. Khaya La Buntu is a Xhosa village where we spent the night, fully emerged in the culture and lifestyle of the Xhosa people.

After the welcome dance the boys were taken aside from the girls to learn about a Xhosa boy's initiation into manhood and the circumcision process. While the girls were taken into a hut by Mama Tofu, a 92 year old woman that is the leader of her clan, to learn about the female circumcision process which is a lot easier than the boys, as nothing needs to be snipped! In the hut Mama Tofu also lent us some wise words about male companionship, love and how to be respected as a Xhosa woman.

We then met up with the boys again by the bon fire where we tasted the traditional home brewed beer which can be quite potent, after which we were treated to a traditional Xhosa meal of tripe, sap and steamed corn bread. The dancing and singing then began again and this time everyone joined in as the songs of farewells arose from the village.

That night we all slept in traditional Xhosa huts. The boys in the one and the girls in the other as we fell asleep to the serene sounds of Dwayne's snoring, except for the two brothers who owned the farm - they thought someone was trying to steal their bulls!