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Days 6 - 11 found us in Trieste, a city that is so different from anything we have seen in all our trips to Italy. The Austrian influence is evident in the buildings and open pedestrian only spaces and the absolute absence of tour groups with flowers on umbrellas although we did see one today, but still it is very a enjoyable place to be.
The train trip over from Treviso went well, once we were on it. The train before ours came in with the 1st class carriage at the front, so it was understandable that we should go to that end of the platform. WRONG. As per the norm, when our train came in next, your carriage was at the other end of the train, and they don't wait long, so a mad dash down the platform, suitcases and backpacks flying in the breeze behind us and we made it and settled in for the 2 1/2 hr trip to Trieste.
We are staying in a small B&B only a short walk from the centre of the old town. Breakfast in the kitchen with the owner is doing wonders for my Italian language skills, even Jean is picking up the odd word or two, enough to get the gist of the conversation. There are only 4 rooms and so far we have met an Italian woman visiting her student daughter, a young Brazilian physicist who lives in Oslo and is doing some research in the synchrotron here in Treiste, and an Argentinian who only speaks Spanish.
Our days have been confined to short trips out and about on the local busses or just wandering. We went down to Castello Miramare, the former home of Maximilian and spent the best part of the day enjoying the gardens and the views out to sea. The castle itself is a classic example of delusional grandeur, resplendent in medieval imagery even though it was built in the middle of the 19th century and was never intended to be anything other than an aristocrat's folly.
Yesterday was a different experience, across the gulf to Muggia, a fishing village sitting at the base of a " hill". The town itself is all narrow streets, tiny piazzetta and stairs, lots of them. A climb up to the castle only to find it was closed and then a bite to eat and a cold drink in a small piazza just big enough for 4 tables and chairs and 2 umbrellas. More arm waving and single word sentences and we were presented with a crusty bread roll with pancetta, mozzarella, tomatoes and lettuce. Deliciosi!
Of course, places at sea level pose insufficient challenges to one member of the team, so it was off to Muggia Vechia (old Muggia) a medieval village dating back to the Bronze Age and occupied before the art of defensive stone walls had been developed. Instead they relied on hill top sites as the natural defence mechanism, and this place was no different, 150 metres above sea level on an almost vertical ascent.
Putting all of her faith in a tourist brochure map, Jean thought that it would be nice to walk there. I, on the other hand had seen the start of the road up, and noting that the directions on the tourist map at every point of interest along the way, started with the words "continue uphill...." suggested that we should get the bus up and perhaps walk down. It was one of the better decisions of the day. It took the bus 15-20 mins to reach the top and had we not been on it, I would not be writing this blog.
Anyway we did, and the view was worth it. Refreshed by what could have been but wasn't, we set off on a walk around the top of the hill designated on the previously referred to map as a 2 hr walk. 2 hours it was, a walk it was not. It was more akin to an endurance test not only of physical strength but emotional strength as well. Cries of "are we there yet" were replaced with "are you sure this is the right way?" It was, a fact confirmed by a farmer on a tractor we met on the way. After a considerably long time, relieved only by a relatively flat 30 minute walk through the forest but we got to about 1km from the end and happened across a bus stop that went straight back to the town by the water. With just 20 mins to spare until the next ferry to Trieste, we were able to get there in time and enjoy the trip back.
Back in Trieste we spent some time looking for a restaurant with a red umbrella, that Jean could not remember where it was or when she saw it, and with one false start that had to be abandoned because of the thick cloud of cigarette smoke, we headed back to a known favourite and enjoyed a very pleasant couple of hours with a jug of vino rosa de casa and a great meal.
As I write this, we have come to end of our stay in Trieste with a walk up to yet another vantage point that just happened to be another castle, a short detour into H&M and then back to our room for a few zzzzzzs before dinner.
We have thoroughly enjoyed our stay here. The B&B has been great, as has been the food, wine, gelati, especially the frozen fruits of the forest yoghurt and the lime gelati, the spaciousness of the city and the seemingly lack of crowds.
Tomorrow we are taking the bus to Ljubljana where I'm sure there are just as many new adventures awaiting us.
- comments
Chris and John Coles It’s all sounding fabulous Jean and Richard and we are thoroughly enjoying your blogs . Thank you and keep enjoying too XX Chris and John