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An early start to catch the 7:00am FrecciaBianca to Ferrara, 7 1/2 hours in which to rebuild the legs for the next round of riding.
It’s another clear blue sky day, forecast to be 30C + so it’s a good day to spend in an air conditioned train, as we hurtle through the countryside at 200kms/hr.
Travelling from the south of the country to the north, it was amazing to see how the countryside changes. From olive trees and some, but not too many grape vines in a dry looking environment, as we went north, this gave way to noticeably different varieties of grapes, and then fields of wheat and other grain, recently bailed hay, then on to field after field of corn and vegetable crops.
Even the houses changed, greater density and seemingly greater affluence.
In what seemed like no time at all, we were in Ferrara and in our hotel. Finally, a hotel with a large hand basin, big enough to do some washing in without flooding the bathroom, a sink plug that actual does what it is designed to do, a shower with a large shower head, and best of all, unlimited very hot water. All of this in a room overlooking a park full of Linden trees, all in full bloom, filling the air with a sweet jasmine like perfume. It all adds up to what I am sure will be a good 3 day break.
Another day and another adventure. Off to find a coin operated laundromat.
Ferrara is an UNESCO listed city, being a great example of not only a Renaissance designed city, but one that has retained its originality through strict planning.
This must be reflected in its civic pride. On the way to the laundromat we saw a very well dress woman stop to pick up some rubbish on the road and put it in a bin. Not something that you would see in Toorak I’m sure. Then into to laundromat and after helping out a local with some small change for his machine, we did our washing and sauntered back to the hotel. Might even sneak in a quick siesta.
Ferrara is very much not a tourist town, making it a real gem. It is also very much a bicycle culture. And it’s a culture that seemed to pervade, at least on this trip, everywhere we have been and one that is not influenced at all by red traffic lights or the meaning of a one way street, but for all that, they are incredibly adroit in avoiding pedestrians, especially meandering tourists, by millimeters. I haven’t seen such density since Copenhagen. More bikes than cars, where we are at least, more bike shops than all of the H&M, Zara, Coin and Benetton stores combined. What a relief.
Monday, and today we took a trip down memory lane. Taking a local train to Bologna to see if could find the hotel we stayed in when we first came to Italy, 34 years ago. We found it, and unlike us, it had been renovated and updated such that only the door onto the street was recognisable. But for all that, the memories haven’t faded and we spent the afternoon exploring the old city.
The constant whine of Vespas and the noise of the rest of the traffic, along with the tour groups and general crush, only served to reinforce our decision to avoid these major cities. Ferrara seemed like a sleepy hollow compared to Bologna, and it’s by no means a small town. Walking back from the station along the Viale Cavour with its avenue of Linden Trees made for a very pleasant end to the day.
For all of the crowds etc, Bologna is an incredibly impressive city within its enormous renaissance buildings and colonnades on just about every street, all intersected by narrow twisting streets barely wide enough for a car. Jean found an H&M and boosted the local economy, and I found a bike shop but it was closed for siesta.
After a very pleasant three days, we are taking another early train, 7:48am, to Padova, then catching a FrecciaRosa to Trieste, bus to Muggia and a hike to the hotel. With luck, and we may well need it, we should be at our intended destination by early afternoon.
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