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Hermanupietersfontein
Hermanus, fortunately shortened in name since the founder arrived here with his cattle and discovered a fresh water spring in the early 1800s, is reputed to be the best shore based place in the world to see whales. The town even has a whale crier walking the cliff path blowing a kelp horn alerting visitors to the whereabouts of the whales.
Why then were we paying R450 each to go out on a boat to see them? The answer is simple; we were too early for the majority of the whales who flock to this seaside resort in droves up to November.
You may by now be familiar with this theme, we seem to have spent 14 months being too early or too late for the best time to visit, how we ever saw anything in 2 or 3 week holidays in the past now seems a complete mystery.
The boat trip was fun; we managed to pick the 2-hour morning window between abating storms and new ones arriving. The photos proved almost impossible to take, holding on was hard enough and the whales were not as inquisitive as they can be (in November no doubt). However it was a wonderful to be within 50 metres of Southern Right whales and, as with nearly every place we've visited so far, we promised ourselves we'd do it again on a calm day with clearer water.
In another lull between storms we drove out to Danger Point lighthouse, scene of the shipwreck of HMS Birkenhead, a troopship, in 1852. Aware that there were not enough boats for all to be saved the troops stood to attention on deck whilst the women and children were put in the lifeboats first. This action, known as the Birkenhead Drill, was the first recorded departure from the "everyman for himself" principle. The 20 women and children on board were saved, sadly 445 soldiers and sailors died.
Just around the coast from here is one of the world's premier spots (Dyer Island) for viewing Great White sharks. Yours truly would have spared no effort and money to get Angela diving with 5 metres of jaws and teeth (with or without a cage, it doesn't bother me!) sadly the weather meant that the boats were not going out!
In 5 days at the Onrus municipal campsite just west of Hermanus we put up with storm force winds, intermittent light and heavy rain, sole occupancy of a 100 pitch site with no fences, dubious looking people wandering through and security guards who stayed in the warmth of their hut. The straw that broke the camel's back was when SABC radio broadcast a severe weather warning of snow and rain for the Western Cape.
We retired to a self catering apartment in Hermanus and spent the first couple of hours walking barefoot on carpets, playing with the microwave, admiring the oven and revelling in the idea of going to the toilet in a toilet! We spent the next couple of hours watching the heavens open and thanking our lucky stars we were no longer under canvas!
Strangely it proved difficult to sleep without the noises of the campsite, things scurrying around the undergrowth, the waves crashing on the rocky shoreline, Hadida Ibis squawking irritably, the trailer fridge turning on and off, distant barking dogs and Angela snoring loudly (we have separate bedrooms again for the first time since June 2006).
With the weather as bad as predicted we fell back on the old Plan B, visits to wineries for some tastings and lunch. Lunch at La Vierge in the Hemel En Aarde valley was a pleasure, with staggering views down towards the sea and eclectic toilets with equally amazing views thanks to the glass walls! Sadly that cost us the equivalent of 18 nights camping at Onrus but sometimes you just have to do these things.
Next stop will be Somerset West and a re-visit with Heike and Clint and family, who are probably thinking that we only just left (they'd be correct of course but it's that timing thing again!)
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