Rocking up in Koh phangan ferry port we were welcomed with not a conventional four wheeled taxi but a very well air conditioned moped. Two people, a huge backpack, a shoulder bag, and snackage bag contested Jens balancing skills on her maiden moped voyage. 5 mins later we successfully arrived at our beach side resort with all luggage in tact, we was welcomed by a familiar accent and someone who could interpret our thanks of 'cheers'! Our next four nights would be spent in another wooden style bungalow within a stones throw away from the beach! It was pretty interesting seeing how basic a cheap fan room could actually get, the outdoor toilet and bucket flush was a nice touch! After exploring the resort and beach we chose a cheapish restaurant and had some tasty food, it just so happen we got a table over looking the beach with an awesome back drop, an early night followed. The 15th of may Matt's birthday, we awoke and Matt opened the huge pile of cards that Jen seemed to keep pulling from her bag, couldn't think of a better place to be on your birthday just a shame my friends and family wasn't there to share the experience! We decided to rent a moped and check out Koh Phangan's finest beach (recommended by the burmese waiter). within 2 mins of mentioning 'moped to hire' to our waiter I had signed the waiver, money was exchanged(£4) and our moped was ready to go, it wasn't long before we was tackling the islands crazy roads, we took a slow drive to Koh Ma, chugging our way up some mega hills and foot hard on the brake heading down with Jen gripping tight on my now baggy t-shirt! I think we were both glad to reach our destination, it was an amazing beach as we stepped on the golden sand we was met by a masseuse offering a good cheap deal for a Thai massage, why not as it was my birthday, we was guided to a comfortable bed overlooking the ocean and asked to lye on our fronts. After a good 40 mins of rubbing in oils and what felt like physical abuse we was asked to turn over.....Matt was greeted by a Adams apple and a set of boobs? Huh!!....yeah that's what I thought!...the next 40 mins were spent eyes closed with the he/she's hands all over me.....happy birthday to me! We spent the day in the sea and sunbathing and then headed back to ban tai our resort. That evening we chilled by the pool whilst watching the kite surfing lessons out at sea. We met a French couple and shared our Thai knowledge and recent experiences! We were in Thailands party capital so had to take advantage, we mentioned to our French friends that there was a jungle waterfall party the following night and agreed to go together. The following day we spent relaxing by the beach and pool, a short wonder down the bay we came across a cool little bar with some techo house beats from there we watched an amazing sunset having a few pre party beers!...we met with our French compadres who kindly offered to take us to the waterfall party doing a few trips on his moped to get us all there, we kindly rejected insisting that a taxi would be less hassle..... We set off to flag a taxi and arranged to meet there....within a couple mins we got one and told the driver our destination...... To save 600 baht (£12) we had to be there before 10...on our budget this was imperative.... 9.45 we pulled up on a dark road in the middle of the jungle next to a sign stating the name of the party....we hoped out and the taxi flew off.....there was fire lighting a very dark road guiding us to the entrance..... We walked.....and walked......walked some more.....9.53......huh?....where is the entrance?.....why are all these mopeds and taxi's whizzing past us?....great not only has the taxi screwed us but there goes the French couple on their moped!grrr! Right 7 mins to get there..... We started running down this dark road coming to dusty dirt trak....just about hearing the music we carried on hurling our way through the jungle......2 mins til 10....the noise gets louder and louder....keeping running Jen we can make it!....10.02.....we arrive at the entrance meeted by 'that will be 300 baht each'.....what!....huh!....no.....were coming in for free!!....with our hair, faces, and clothes dripping with sweat, breathless we explained.....One look at us and he gave us the nod to go in!!.... Yes we made it!....we didn't take any of what we had just walked into in....just tried to catch our breath and cool ourselves.....not long and we bumped into our French friends....we looked awful and must have smelt like a couple of tramps....hey ho....after 10 mins and a beer and water we where ready to look at our surroundings...5/6 hours later after nearly getting taken out by a ball of fire (by the fire show), a dance and a skinful of beers we were ready for bed, our cheapest option was a moped taxi... three of us jumped on and away we went, making sure we was dropped on our resort doorstep obviously!! The following day we slept and tried to rid of our fuzzy heads.....a very lazy day indeed, we left Koh Phangan the next morning heading for the eagerly anticipated koh samui!...