This morning I woke up some time a little after sunrise, I guess about 6am ish. I got my breakfast and went and checked the surf whilst eating. It was offshore, and 5-6ft+, but there didn't seem to really be any banks, and it was mainly closing out. Having watched it for about 15 minutes and didnt see the 3 guys out getting much I briefly considered going elsewhere. In the end though I decided I may as well give it a go, as I wouldn't know where else was worth checking anyway.
Having paddled to where the other 3 were sat out back, I waited for about 10/15 minutes and all of a sudden it just turned on and started pumping! The wind dropped making the water almost oily smooth, and I assume a tiny movement in the tide started making the peak we were sat on to work. It seemed to get a little bigger too for a while and a lot of them were just barreling down the bank.
I ended up having the best session I can remember or ages, and was in for about 2 hours. It was brilliant to be out in solid surf again, rather than just little 1ft waves. I got some really fun ones and a few that were almost scarily big, especially when they closed out and I got worked. I very nearly got barrreled too, but got knocked off while trying to get out which was a bit gutting. All in all though I was absolutely stoked to have had a good surf at last!
The wind got up and started blowing crossshore, hense why I got out as all the waves started becoming unmake able. Having got out and changed I had a 2nd beak fast while watching the last few guys before they came in too.
It is meant to be much warmer today, 25-30 degrees apparently, and sunny with clouds like yesterday. Having spoken to some other blokes while in the surf they suggested seeing if it got good here again late in the arvo when the wind drops, so its going to be another day chilling in the park I think. Not that I am complaining one bit, especially as I will be in the busy city with Craig tomorrow.
I did have a very chilled day in the park in the end, just reading/listening to music as usual, and went wandering about. I watched a bunch of kids about David's age on bodyboards in the shore break which looked great fun, they were getting smashed but getting into some pretty good sandy barrels too.
I went for a swim in the shorey and just got mullered, it was really shallow with big stormy waves breaking onto you. Also the cross shore current was so strong you could barely stand on your feet, and I got dragged about 20m along the beach in about 2 minutes!
When I got bored of being rubbed into the sand I stood and spoke to the lifeguard for a while who was a really nice bloke. Turned out he had done 5 months life guarding in Croyde in Devon, so we had lots to talk about.
Later on when the wind had died off after I had eaten dinner I spent ages on the beach weighing up whether to surf again. In the end I opted against it as compared to this morning it was rubbish, and I didn't want to ruin it by having a crap surf at the end of the day. Instead I watched a couple of guys who were out trying to make the best of it, and watched some fishermen on the beach too.
I parked up in the same carpark as last night to sleep, as there was no reason to go elsewhere. I spoke to Craig on the phone too; turns out he has to work tomorrow now until 5pm, which is a bit of a shame, but can't be helped. He's going to leave me a key to get into the flat and leave my stuff, then I will see if I can meet Flo during the day and meet Craig later on. It means there is no rush to get into Sydney though which is cool, so I can make sure I avoid morning rush hour.
P.s. I CAN NOT believe it is the 21st of November, where had all the time gone?! I have been in Aus for 9 months now, and in about 3 weeks I will be leaving. Absolutely mental!
(Photo - not a great photo, but the park I have been in the last few days).