Our lesson was at 7am this morning which was pretty good - it was considerably smaller than yesterday, other than the odd set, and there wasn't much wind. I enjoyed it a lot more and got a couple of stand out waves. One of which both Rhys and I were on so I'm looking forward to watching that video in theory at some point. After our lesson I came in for a 2nd breakfast before going back out with the other group. By then the surf was pretty rubbish so I got out af...

Stayed up and had a few beers night but still got to bed by 11pm as we all knew the swell was meant to hit today. We weren't disappointed - I was woken up at 6:30am to the sound of waves landing on the beach. Our lesson was at 7am so I ran to breakfast and then got the wetsuit on. We paddled out and the sets were considerably 4ft with some outside coming through at 5ft+. I didn't really have best of sessions, just couldn't pick the right waves out. Linton was v...

Everyone in academy had their surf lesson at 9am today with Linton and Morgan. The surf was a little better than expected - clean and most sets 3-4ft. I didn't have the best session, just couldn't get in tune with the waves but some of the others were ripping. The highlight of the session by far were the Dolphins - they appeared from nowhere and were swimming around around us, surfing waves with us and jumping out the water. I can't describe how cool it was. Al...

So I had a rubbish night sleep last night - woke up at 4am and my ear was throbbing and super painful. It felt just like when I have had an ear infection before so I was freaking out a bit. Anyway I went and cleaned it out with fresh water, took some drugs and fell back to sleep. This morning it felt better but not right, so I decided to stay out the water. I didn't miss much, the surf wasn't that great so I just watched from the beach and chatted to Simon the p...

Was so tired I managed to actually sleep through till 8:30am this morning which was nice. Has breakfast and then walke over to meet the others at Mulawarra for a surf. It was about 3ft and messy as hell. Due to the onshore winds tons of seaweed had been washed into the beach too so it was like paddling through a jungle. I stayed out for about 45 minutes and then gave up as it was rubbish. We all got out and walked to Arrawarra expecting to have a fun surf like ...