Profile
Blog
Photos
Videos
So we woke up at 8am, probably as our body clocks are set to it after the last 3 months at Spot X.
We went and checked the surf out the front of the town beach, which looked ok, so we rushed back for some breakfast and put our wetsuits on.
Walking through the middle of a town, past shops and coffee shops, in wetsuits carrying surfboards going from the hostel to the beach was a pretty surreal experience.
Unfortunately by the time we got in the water the cross shore wind had picked up, so the surf was 1-2ft and a bit messed up. However it was still quite fun as the waves were just little barrels onto the sand bank.
After about 45 minutes none of us were having a great so we decided to go and find another beach. Charlie had seen a beach the other side of the lighthouse headland and we had realised the wind would be offshore there, so we got out went exploring.
After a 15-20 minute walk through Byron's suburbs we stumbled upon 'Tallows Beach Road'. And what a find that was! We walked out onto Tallows beach to see people getting stand up barrels in PERFECT offshore conditions.
We all stood on the beach in shock about what we had just found, but once we had amped each other up a bit we paddled out.
As I approached the lineup a 6ft and barrelling wave started breaking in front of me which was impressive enough, but then I realise Atleast 10 dolphins were surfing in the face of the wave, just like you see on TV!
5 minutes later I had got out into the line up and was just waiting for the other 3 to reach me. As I sat there the dolphins were just swimming around me, close enough that I would have been able to touch them with my toes as the played around underneath my board..
The other 3 made it out and we all just sat there shouting and screaming about how epic the surf was for about 5 minutes before anyone even paddled for a wave.
We ended up having one of the best sessions of our lives - I caught some of the biggest waves I have ever had (with faces top to bottom of Atleast 8ft), puddled into 5+ full on barrels but unfortunately didnt make it out of any and just got swallowed.
Daveo was off his head that session, and ended up with wave of the day - early on he tried to take a wave really late, got sucked over the falls, and as he did so his legs and hips were suspended in the barrel as he torso was sticking out the top! Later he took a wave from the same spot, took off early, backdoored into the barrel and rode our clean the other side hoola'ing!
Just sitting in the line up and looking up the beach to the left hand point break, every single wave which came through had someone riding it, with most getting fully barrelled. As I watched one time I saw a wave i didn't think had anyone on, then a guy appeared from inside the barrel stoop up straight with one arm above his head..
Eventually when we were unable to paddle any more we got out and made the walk back to the hostel, where we just chilled in our room and too it all in for a while.
Everyone else then came and met up with us, as they had just been chilling out at the beach and wondering round the shops. We went out for lunch at an American kinda restaurant, as they had cheap lunchtime meals on, as it may be the last time ever/last time for a long time I see Carley.
After Carley had gone and we had said our goodbyes everyone went and bought some beers and we went on the coastal walk to the lighthouse. Now I know how much I moaned about walking to mum and dad, but in that scenery around Byron headland with such good friends as company I really really enjoyed it.
We sat looking out over the sea at one rest point to see waves breaking out over a reef, with dolphins surfing and jumping out of them!
When we got to the lighthouse we just chilled out, drank our beers and chatted. We were also approached by 5 very strange guys preaching about how Jesus is amazing and that they were super naturals with healing powers.. Byron is full of still crazy people!!
When the sun had gone down and it started getting cold we all walked back to the hostel, went to the super market and cooked diner (which was very strange after 3 months of being catered for!).
After dinner everyone just sat and chilled out in our room until we went to bed about 10:30pm..
What a fantastic day.
(Photo - the boys surf checking Byron Town break)
- comments