Another day trip and we were off to Sonamarg, where we politely but firmly refused another horse ride about 100 times and hiked 12km uphill on foot in search of a glacier, but gave up about 6km away as it was getting late and our boathouse host came looking for us to warn us of the bears that come out at night! Then he hitched a ride back down on a random passing toboggan and we were left to descend the slippery 12km downhill in the fading light which ended with our taxi driver speeding and hooting and taking over at just plain stupid times because he was now in a hurry to get home. Next time give us a time to be back dammit and don't just say 'as you like' when we ask!

Himalayas by foot or by hired waterproof boot rather, is definitely the way forward, we had a great time playing in the snow on the way up and the exercise kept us warm despite the freezing temperatures. The slower pace also allows you to absorb the surroundings from noticing the snow cascading down the pine trees or the small frozen waterfalls in the cliffs to stopping to inhale the pure mountain air whilst ogling at the fresh water rapids below us. It's all fun and games though 'till someone loses an eye, they say, or until someone loses half their body weight in diarrhoea, in the snow! As was Dans sad tale. The houseboats mutton curry the night before gave Dan some murderous food poisoning that left him doubled over in pain by the time we got back and was to leave him with some nasty bug that would rear its ugly head every few days. Welcome tithe start of Delhi belly!