A little chai stop on the way to Jaisalmer, in the small sleepy town of Kolayat started with us fighting off a fiesty old women who pointed at sights and shouted something in hindi, then rubbed her fingers together indicating a tip. We made it clear she wasn't getting any money from us and she stalked off swearing and spitting, placing some sort of voodoo curse on us i'm sure. A few steps further and a very confident polite little boy with excellent english charmed us into accepting him as our guide, not that we needed one as we were only going to wander round the temple ringed lake stretching our legs but he was so sweet and he only wanted shampoo and sweets, bless him. He turned out to be quite useful in the end leading us through doorways we would never otherwise have dared enter and got us involved in some very funny conversations with the stoned Sadhus that live at the temples. Upon declaring that we actually had some shampoo for him, courtesy of the last hotel, he very quickly led us through a tangle of corridors that were great shortcuts and we were back at the car where he was eagerly awaiting his tip of hair wash. We will definitely be stocking up on hotel freebies from now on.

On the road again, we asked Rhotash to stop for a photo opportunity of the one of the little desert villages that were dotted around. Next thing we knew he had pulled over and we were being led into the village. We shyly smiled and waved at the kids feeling like we had intruded on someones home, but they were all so welcoming and friendly and were so excited to have these strangers in their village, giggling at their photos we showed them and at my chapatti making skills in the kitchen. Lots of smiles and waves later and we were back on the road to Jaisalmer, the Golden City of exotic camel-train trade routes and desert mystery.