Jaisalmer fort is really beautiful at night when its all lit up and you're viewing it from afar, but during the day it's just ridiculously busy with street vendors, auto rickshaws that force you to jump out the way as they squeeze through narrow gateways whilst overtaking each other and motorbikes and the usual cows and some of the skinniest dogs I've seen in India yet! After my initial nagging to see down yet another side street, in the hope of finding a nicer area, we hightailed it out of there and stumbled upon a Haveli. Some more nagging from me to view it, seeing as we missed the ones in Shekhawati, found us finally finding a treasure in Jaisalmer, thanks to the guide who made it really fascinating.

Salim Singh-Ki-Haveli is a traditional mansion that was owned by some old fearsome prime minister and his seven wives. With its amazing mushroom like top floor intricately carved, complete with attachable carved stone Flowers for festivals, insight into the Lego like structure of the building, the wives once a month bathing rituals and the lovers seat, where the prime minister and his selected wife would communicate across a courtyard using only hand gestures and expressive eyes, finally gave us something to like about Jaiselmer. It's a pity because the fort could be really lovely, If they pedestrianised it and gagged all the pushy street vendors! Or maybe we were just having an off day and had little patience left.

All stress was forgotten a little while later after a stop at the government approved Bhang shop (it had a sign outside declaring this) where after a quick consultation with Dr Bhang, we were both sipping on a special chocolate lassi. After dinner at the beautiful Little Italy restaurant which had a very romantic snug window seat overlooking the fort, once again beautifully lit up at night, we had a very confusing trip home, which saw Dan and I walking around lost in circles for ages. Rickshaw drivers laughing at us as we couldn't remember the name of our hotel or were it was, had us in stitches, which was only intensified on finally reaching our poolside fairy-tail princess room decorated with colourful saris and all things shiny and sparkly back at the hotel, as there was a wedding party that had spilled out onto the street from the hotel opposite. The huge wedding truck blasting out tunes with an almighty base surrounded by the part goers was blocking off a very irate tractor driver that was flashing his lights and blowing his horn with all that he had. Of course no one in the party gave him a second glance and just continued with their jubilant dancing procession down the road. With the evenings entertainment taken care of, Dan and I agreed that our initial dislike of Jaisalmer was probably unjustified and I think we'll both hold fond memories of it for a while instead.