Profile
Blog
Photos
Videos
We left our Nullarbor campsite mid-morning and headed straight for the Nullarbor Roadhouse to refuel. As we did on the trip over, we took photos at the iconic yellow road sign saying to watch out for camels, wombats and kangaroos for the next 88km. We also checked out the original Nullarbor Roadhouse building, with its historic fuel pumps and ancient cash register. We also got to see an RFDS airplane out the back behind the motel on the airstrip.
A funny thing happened while we were checking out the old relics outside. An old man was sitting on a bench seemingly asleep or staring downwards. Twenty minutes later he was still sitting on the bench in exactly the same position. Getting back into the car we both thought the man was a statue, part of the relics in the grounds, so Gadi got out to have a closer look and I snapped a photo when suddenly he moved. We shared a laugh!
Next stop on this beautiful sunny day in the Nullarbor was at the Head of the Bight where we had pinned our last hopes to see whales. This place is owned by the indigenous Yalata people and you pay to enter the viewing area. A sign at the entrance on the highway let us know that 169 whales had so far been seen today (although I have no idea how they count the whales or how often throughout the day it gets updated when only two people work in the Centre).
Regardless, we were so glad we paid our $15 each because we had an amazing experience in a truly stunning location. The turquoise water in the bay is set against a backdrop of huge white sand dunes on the left and the lime stone Bunda Cliffs to the right. The Head of the Bight can only be described as a magical place with long board walks across the fragile rock face leading to the cliff edge in several directions.
And we got to see lots of southern right whales swimming in pairs, mothers and their calves, frolicking close to shore, rolling on their backs, resting close to the cliffs and blowing water high in the air. We spent ages watching the whales and taking photos, and then walking to the lookout to admire the dramatic limestone cliffs.
Eventually we dragged ourselves away and went to make some lunch, which we ate at the picnic shelter in the car park along with a tour bus group who were on a five day tour from Adelaide with the Head of the Bight their final destination. Then we headed back in to the Centre to enjoy scones with jam and cream and to make phone calls to find Gadi a podiatrist in Port Augusta if possible. It took several phone calls but eventually we lined up an (expensive) appointment for Monday but given his toenail probably needs lifting to relieve the pressure and stop the infection, we have no choice as several courses of antibiotics have done nothing except irritate his gut.
After our exhilarating experience watching whales we continued on our journey past the next roadhouse and several old school ruins along the way, testament to a time late last century when there were many pioneers living in these parts and tiny one room schools sprang up with much lobbying by parents of the authorities in Adelaide. We stopped for the night at the site of the Cohen School ruins some 13km west of Penong. This school opened with just nine students in 1933 and ran until 1940. The first teacher was Miss Norton. Today all that is left standing, like many old ruins, is the chimney. We arrived just before sunset and Gadi tried once again unsuccessfully to get the satellite dish to work.
Made a chicken fried rice for dinner and a big salad and cleaned out the fridge in preparation for going through the quarantine station tomorrow in Ceduna. We have to use all our fruit and veg or we will have to hand it in. Realised we still had quite a bit of fruit so also made a compote from apples and pears.
Time to hop into bed and check out all our photos from today's whale watching experience. So glad we got to see such magnificent creatures in their own environment in such a stunning location. Today has been a real highlight.
Night night, sweet dreams xx
- comments