I left my suitcase at the hotel in Gurgaon and took 2 backpacks onto the plane to Kashmir. I had to check one in because it had liquids, although it only weighed 3kg. Arriving in Kashmir airport, as the plane taxis down the runway you notice the military colors on the structures on the airport property. You have to fill in an "immigration" form at the airport.
Driving through Kashmir I am amazed at the amount of Indian military presence. There are trucks and busses transporting soldiers and policemen. There are soldiers posted along the roads, and they are not huddled together or chatting or smoking. They are positioned 5-10m apart and while they do not have their fingers on the trigger, they are not relaxing either. As you pass various military positions, you notice they are sandbagged, there is a gun protruding from the position and they are all manned. Even the trucks will often have a soldier sitting as lookout with gun in hand. Fortunately for me, my hotel is right next door to the United Nations Military Observer Group for India and Pakistan so I think I am safe.
The afternoon I arrive we go look at some gardens in Srinagar. One was established in 1634 by the Moghuls. Jan van Riebeeck only landed in the Cape in 1652. However, I am here at the totally wrong time of the year. It is almost autumn. Best time is Spring or even better is winter when everything is covered in snow.
Went to Pahalgam the next day which is almost 3 hours away. Went on a horse ride for almost 3 hours after the drive. It was damn painful! I have a bruise on my left thigh from the saddle. It is really beautiful here but wrong season. The next day in Gulmarg, about 1.5 hours drive from Srinagar I elect to not go to all the sights as it would involve a horse ride. They assure me that the ground would be flat today as opposed to yesterday's rough terrain. I chose to take the cable car to the mountain top but I also decided I want to hike to the lower cable car station. It was a 30 minute hike through some lovely forest land. Lots of goat dung and mud on the track.
The ride to the top is not spectacular and I only go to the first phase of the cable car. Second phase is more than double the cost and the peak is covered in cloud so I didn't bother.
After we returned to Srinagar, we went inside the biggest masjid in Kashmir. Then a walk through the old city market place. It is just like a flea market and I had some awesome burfi ice cream.
We then went to the fort sitting at the top of a mountain/hill and has stunning 360 views of Srinagar. The army did not want to allow my guide to accompany me, I had to provide my name and address and leave my phone and camera with the soldiers. Eventually they allowed my guide to accompany me too. It is quite a climb up the stairs and the fort is not maintained at all although there are lights at night around the facade. It is totally overgrown with grass and in disrepair. There are several military posts in the fort although none seem armed with significant weaponry and soldiers live in hovels there. They have however built a temple there for themselves. Enjoyed all the walking and hiking today.