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Day 29 May 12
Rome Day 2
Therefore, after the aborted trip of yesterday we set of hopeful that all would be well. So many people wanted to go to Rome from the campsite that, instead of the minibus, we had the older, larger coach. This got us, just, up to the town, and left us with a five minute walk to the station.
Since it was Saturday, there were few commuters so we had a reasonable comfortable ride to 'San Pietro', leaving us with another short walk to the square. Unfortunately, this means we have to run the gauntlet of the wide variety of 'sellers' to be found at any site: cards, bags, sunglasses, and beggars who, in this case prostrate themselves on the ground and seem to be moaning and groaning.
In glorious sunshine and with the temperature heading rapidly north, we found that the huge, main square, was quite busy but were able to join the queue for the Basilica without too much trouble. The square, however, appears to be set out for an event with chairs and fences all around. When such an event takes place it seems that all entrances are blocked and all bags and bodies are then checked with scanners. However, not everyone in the queue was happy, as the dress police were out in full force. The issue for men concerns the length of their shorts and for women the nakedness of their shoulders, as well as their shorts. Clearly some people either fail to read the instructions, or do not get proper advice but some get turned away as they do not meet the standard. My shorts were passed but I did have a pair of trousers in my bag just in case.
The Basilica was crowded but what was odd, strange, bizarre was the behaviour of people. They treated it as an opportunity to be photographed in front of something iconic with little regard for those who see it as an important religious place. The general noise level was high as well as people engaged in conversations. The other problem seems to relate to the tour parties whose leaders behave as though they are the only ones in the building. One Brazilian leader brought her group to where I was standing, well leaning, on a rail, said 'Excuse me', assumed this was Ok, and barged herself against me. I refused to budge as I thought this action rather rude and presumptive. But it is a common sort of behaviour.
After this, we headed to the museums. Standing in the queues, we got chatting to a Japanese couple who seemed well acquainted with our compatriot Will Adams! Once inside conditions seriously worsened as the pack of the visitors became oppressive. Yesterdays strike probably forced many groups to change their tours to Saturday, hence the crush. The visit as a result, was very difficult. People behave in a manner, which is often insensitive, and, yes, rude. One man simply barged past me without a word. I am afraid he got the same treatment although I managed to time my barge as he took a picture. Doubt if he will change his ways, though.
There was much of interest to see. The Sistine Chapel and the Raphael Rooms are probably on everyone's list, but we found the map room intriguing, even stunning. However, the Sistine was a revelation in terms of people behaviour and attitudes. For me was nearly ruined as, when we entered, the ban on noise and on photography was being ignored. All I could see were the packed in visitors pointing their cameras at the ceiling and taking pointless photographs. Pointless since the flashes will simply not work at the distances involved: and no one was doing anything to stop it at that point. Although that changed quite quickly, it did not seem that the visitors were willing to co-operate willingly, or indeed listen.
At the heart of it, I think, is a conflict between the Vatican earning as much money as they can from all of the tourists, while at the same time wanting to make such places available to anyone willing to pay. Perhaps they need to control the tour parties with more vigour as they tend to make a lot of noise.
For the first time in our visits we actually some contemporary art! Some Dali, a Bacon, a Graham Sutherland particularly caught the eye.
So, we have now 'done' Rome and tomorrow head off into rural Italy for a few days.
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