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Day 32 May 15th
Cortona and Montepulchiano
As we approach the end of the trip we have just a few more places to visit and perhaps a little wine to buy.
Why visit Cortona? Well Meryl has read two books called 'Bella Tuscany' and 'Under the Tuscan Sun' by Francis Mayes. Naturally, we had to visit the places she referred to in said books as she waxed lyrical about their wonders and beauty. As it is only a few miles up the road from our campsite it was not too much of a problem. Of coursew, we are at the campsite so that we could visit the sites. Except for the satnav! It sent me one way and Meryl said. 'No!'. Oh, dear. Not able to turn around on a sixpence I had to keep going into a narrow village but we managed to survive the scare and eventually ended up beneath Cortona.
It is one more of the many hilltop towns in Italy so the climb again is via a twisty, hairpin littered road, hoping to find a car park and not hoping to find a juggernaught descending. Anyway as it was a bus route I guessed all would be well; and so it was. As you might imagine, the town being on a hill the footpath up to the centre is steep. Cortona, however, has found a solution to ensure that its would be visitors do not leave before they arrive - provide escalators! Really!
The town was delightful; old buildings, narrow streets, cafes, theatres and shops selling local produce (as well as the expensive designer label things). We only made a couple of visits to local places of interest but outside the Duomo we met an English couple so we chatted. They were here for a wedding on 16th in the Duomo but had little idea or knowledge about the area. It was one of those package deals that offers for example, weddings under the Tuscan sun. Except on the 16th it is due to rain! And the 'Giro' closes local roads as the bikes rush past in a blur of pink. Cortona is well worth a longer more lingering visit but work (and the house) beckons so we have to leave for a second town.
Now Montepulchiano is rather better known for, I believe, wine. Also a hillstop town but this time no real problem about parking. The climb into the town begins with a lift, in fact two lifts. Sensible, as they hope you will but lots of local goods and return them to your car! As an old walled town we enter through the gates and wander uphill. Many wine shops are to be found (and even visited) so we decide to take the plunge and go for a tasting. It is a vineyard shop (or winery in their words) and the lady is helpful and speaks good English. We try a sample and it's, wow; deep red/black with a great nose and even more fantastic taste - plums and liquorice. It will keep she says for up to…….40 years!! Indeed she has available a version form 1951. I offer to buy a case but she politely tells me it is only available to personal friends of the owner. Thank heavens for that as it's over €20,000 for twelve! Anyway, we thank her and leave, promising to return later (which we do).
Our walk through the continually climbing streets suggests that Montepulchiano is more than a giant wine shop. It has culture as well in the form of a music academy and theatre so a longer stay is warranted. But for us that's not possible. However, looking down on the countryside below the connection between wine and 'olio' is very apparent. Vast rows of vines, probably the most we have seen together since the Alto Adige, jostle for space with the extensive olive groves. In the shops wine and olive oil are sold together as well. So we return down the town streets and visit another, larger winery/shop where we purchase a few more local bottles. When I ask about how to serve the wine she tells me it needs to be opened three hours before drinking; eg at breakfast for lunch! We purchase a few and all should get to grace our table at some point (bookings will be taken for our al fresco Italian menu.)
Another pleasing day in Italy but we must now plan our journey home.
- comments
Jenny How sad. Enjoy the last bit. Jenny
ray well at least youhad a good dayand tried some of the very dear local wine , what more can you ask for ,