We have just come out from the strangely calm and beautiful golden temple.

Before you go in you have to brave the Indian public and touts. I don't mind the touts because I understand they just want to make a living, but almost every man thinks it's ok to just stare at Tilly. They don't look away when I face them down, we have decided to just ignore to save me having to beat up every Indian in amritsar.

But apart from this issue, there is a lot to admire and enjoy here. A good 2 hour walk around the golden temple with bare feet and a orange rag on my head. It's enlightening, these guys are absolute fanatics.