Again, a very uneventful day to report. Saskia and I both got up at 6:30am go try and go for an early surf, before the wind got up. We got down to the beach to find there was still loads of swell. It was marginally better than the day before but sill a big old mess really. However she had a new board and I'm dying for a surf so we went out anyway.. And soon regretted it.
The current was going up the beach pretty quickly and the waves were absolutely crap, if you could catch one that is.
After half an hour I was over it - Saskia was already waiting on the beach and I just tried to get a wave in. When I was close to the beach I was completely smashed by a rouge wave from behind and tumbled around a fair bit. In an attempt to right myself I kicked the reef pretty hard, and got out to find some cuts on my foot, but the bruising hurt more.
By this time im in a really bad mood. We got back and I had a quick shower and squeezed a lime onto the cuts on my foot to stop them getting infected.
First thing in the morning it was a little hazy and cloudy, but by about 8am it had completely cleared and it was a bright sunny day. Once again I slapped on the suncream and found my lounger by the pool to read my book.
After lunch I was going to go with Saskia to take her board to be sold at Echo Beach, but I had absolutely no energy and felt exhausted. In the end she went off by herself, which I felt really guilty about, and I tried to watch a film. I gave up on that as it kept freezing like the other day, and read until early evening.
Saskia got back successfully selling her board which she was stoked about - they gave her twice as much as the guy in the shop where she got the new one offered her in part exchange. By then I was feeling even worse. As usual it was about 27 degrees in early evening (about as cool as it ever gets down here by the coat) and I was freezing, so I put a hoody on.
I didn't really feel like it, but I made myself had a few chips for dinner. Everything seems to go through me in a matter of hours so just tried to eat some thing stodgey.
Straight after dinner I went to bed cold and exhausted.
(Photo - Reef cuts).