Head wind and hills all day. Only did 32k. Left Fremington and immediately started uphill on a little road which went up and over Harkerside Moor,then down to the main road. A lot of walkers were gathering in Gunnerside obviously a popular starting place. Had an expensive coffee and cake in Muker-- lots of tourists for the woollen mill there. Set off again up a hill I could hardly push the bike up--must have been one in 3. Hill went on and on and I kept on being passed by pesky little MGs, around 30 of them, also heaps of motorbikes all on this narrow road which went up up over Askrigg Common. The wind was howling and even when coming downhill (equally steep) it was hard not to be blown off the road. Did not find Askrigg to be a very welcoming place so headed on, with a tail wind now, to Aysgarth. The first B&B I tried obviously did not welcome cyclists--it was a 5 star establishment after all! The next place had a notice to say that cyclists and walkers were welcome,so I booked in to Cornlee Guest House. I was greeted with a pot of tea and home-made cake so all was good. It was not until I had washed all my clothes in the shower that I discovered the entreaty not to attempt doing washing in the facilities. Dinner is at the pub across the road--reduced price for early birds. That's me!