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The Pilgrims' RideJuly 28th 2009
WHEN at the first I took my pen in hand
Thus for to write,
I did not understand
That I at all should make a little book
In such a mode: nay,
I had undertook
To make another, which when almost done,
Before I was aware, I this blog begun.
(With apologies to John Bunyan's introduction to Pilgrims Progress)
From Pilgrims Progress 'tis but a pebble's lance to Pilgrims' Way; the historic route supposed to have been taken by pilgrims from Winchester to the shrine of Thomas a Becket in Canterbury, and associated with Geoffrey Chaucer's epic - The Canterbury Tales, which incidentally is still as funny and relevant as when it was written at the end of the 14th Century.
However,the name Pilgrims Way is somewhat misleading, because the route follows closely a pre-existing trackway said to date from 500-450 BC, but probably many centuries older. In fact the course of the prehistoric part of the trackway connected the narrowest part of the English Channel with important religious sites like Avebury and Stonehenge.
The route was dictated by natural geography: it took advantage of the contours, avoided the sticky clay of the land below but also the thinner, overlying "clay with flints" of the summits. In places a coexisting ridgeway and terrace way can be identified, where the route followed would have varied according to the season.
In spite of its great age the track is in excellent condition, and remains popular with walkers …… and a few hardy cyclists.The main part of today's ride took in the North Downssection of the Pilgrims Way between Westwell and Lenham, and consisted of nearly eight miles of fascinating but hard riding over stony tracks and chalky pathways.
The hardness of the ride required John to keep firmly in mind the wartime American President's exhortation that "The only thing we have to fear…..is fear itself!". It should be explained.John had taken a backward fall some days earlier and was suffering mild to severe discomfort from coccydynia, a pain in the upper bum.
Had Norman been with us and not lazing in a prolonged post prandial reverie in France, he might have been able to administer relief in the form of a caudal epidural injection.
Moving on. The weather was perfect. A balmy, breezy, Kentish summer's day. Regular greetings exchanged with walkers coming the other way, stalwart British seniors, young American girls with sparkling smiles, spectacular views south over the Weald of Kent….where else would one want to be?
Peter and Judith politely paused occasionally to allow John to catch up.Then,in what seemed like no time at all, we exited the PW for the leisurely downward ride, across the still busy A20, into the picturesque village of Lenham.
Our destination for lunch was the Dog and Bear in the bustling village square. What a gem is Lenham at the height of summer. The locals must be well pleased that the nearby A20, and more recent M20, take virtually all traffic hurtling past out of sight and earshot between Dover and London.
We, on the other hand, cruise silently up to the front of the pub, which is bedecked with hanging baskets abundant with bright and colourful flowers.
Miraculously Judith's entitlement to the Seniors' low cost menu was not challenged by the staff,although this poses a dilemma for her. She must wrestle with the conflicting benefits of a cheap lunch, and the fact that she is not confronted with gasps of amazement and that one who appears so young should be required, via bus pass production, to prove her entitlement to privileges which genuine geriatrics such as Peter and John enjoy.
Lunch was home made Fish Pie with a dish of perfectly cooked vegetables, accompanied by an excellent bottle of Runnymede Island NZ Sauvigon Blanc*, followed by sticky toffee pudding and rhubarb crumble. Great value, good service.Recommended.
(* Available on-line from Todds Wine Shop (Shepherd Neame) Faversham.)
A solemn undertaking was obtained from Judith that she would write one of these blogs in September.This is progress, but at the next full meeting of the group, similar undertakings will be required from other members!
Now for the return ride to Westwell. In Charing we spent a few moments studying the large outdoor sundial. Judith was impressed by its ability to distinguish between GMT and British Summer Time (see photo). This needs closer study.
The brass base of the sundial contains a Latin inscription -"Non Horas Numero, Nisi Serenas"… "Time means nothing unless it is precise". Or possibly, 'Dippy Serena has lost Horace's mobile number' . As Judith stands astride the device, the sun comes out and, sure enough, its 3pm.
Out of Charing towards Westwell via Pett Lane, and Peter pauses at one of the boundary walls ofPett Place. His interest is in the brickwork; Flemish bond.
This beautiful house was built by the Sayer family in the early 18th century around the core of an earlier,16th century house.If you haven't seen it,it is well worth a slow drive (or even cycle) past.
The main house is just one of a number of interesting buildings here. The most notable of the structures isperhaps the ruined chapel , which is a Scheduled Ancient Monument consisting of a flint-built gable end with a pointed window and part of the north wall.
It has been suggested that in fact this is not a genuine Norman chapel ,but that materials were taken from the Norman cellars of the house and used to create a folly in the 18th century.The mediaeval aisled timber tithe barn, re-faced with red brick in the 17th century, is a grade 2 listed building.
Thanks to Peter for yet another fascinating ride enabling us to enjoy more of Kent's beautiful countryside and hospitality.
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