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Huge day, up early for our flight to Delhi and then three hour wait for flight to Varanasi. Bit excited about going here for the first time!
Finally we land and jump in the mini bus for the long haul to the hotel. Our first experience with the horrendous traffic conditions in Varanasi. The roads are terrible, over crowded with anything that moves on legs or wheels ... ugh.
Finally we make it to our hotel - Palace on the Ganges - exhausted and we are happy to find Felix waiting for us!! Quick decision to have a freshen up then beers on the hotel roof where we can watch the flooded Ganges race past.
It's very hot and humid and some how Jassa has managed to find us some cold beers!! We watch the sun set from the roof and wonder if the water will go down enough for our early morning boat ride. Dinner and drinks on the roof until the beer runs out about the same time exhaustion takes over!
Up early, Ganges river boats have been cancelled due to the flooding so we head off on foot to the Ghat just near our hotel and watch the early morning chaos of pilgrims dunking themselves in the very murky Ganges, a young man oblivious to everyone practicing his yoga, kids selling flowers on banana leaves or little plates to make a blessing ... cows, dogs, walking pilgrims, holy men in saffron robes ... it's all a crazy scene ... and this is just the nearby Ghat!! We head off in the mini bus towards the main ghats ... traffic is terrible .. as we now know it always is ... dropped off at the point where we walk in from ... all the streets are really dirty, cow s*** and cows everywhere, far worse than any other place we have been ... and crowds of people all making their way to the Holy River. As we are herded to the river we notice many people begging, more than usual and lots of small children are also begging. In amongst all this we pass many school kids on the front of their Dads motorbike, looking immaculate heading off to school ... some are so tiny!!!
Finally we reach the steps where people bathe from and the ceremonies are held .. but most of the steps are underwater so we follow our local guide who has the inside knowledge to a temple where we can watch the proceedings from a rooftop. The colors, smells and seeing the passion on people's faces as they dunk themselves in river is amazing! We look at the river and see absolute filth .. rubbish floating, thousands of people bathing, ash remains of recently departed being thrown in, loads of empty boats moored causing more chaos, a bit further out we see what looks like partial cremations float by .... it's like watching a train wreck ... so much is happening you can't take it all in and you can't look away...
After a Marsala tea we head back along the alleyways ... that are so crowded with people, cows and dogs to the area where the cremations take place ... along the way we give way to a body shrouded on a stretcher being taken to the cremation site. India just whacks you in the face with everything at once ... I elect not to go up into the actual burning site .. near enough is good enough for me ... It's hot, it stinks and I'm not loving Varanasi!
Finally we crawl back though the traffic to our hotel for a wash and breakfast.. and try and take in what we have seen.
Out again bouncing along the terrible roads to Sarnath which is a pilgrimage place for Buddhists. Lord Buddha preached his first sermon here. We are passed by a 4WD with a shrouded body strapped to the roof ...
Off to the Vishwanath Mandir and the Mother India Temple ... it's stinking hot ... it's taken ages to get here ...and I don't ever do history well!!!! :((
Finally back to the hotel and a lazy afternoon of reading and visiting Open Hand for late lunch.
We rally again for another go at the traffic this time on cycle rickshaws ... I have never been in a bigger traffic jam ... half way through Jassa saves us with some hot samosas he has seen just freshly cooked. We finally make it to the roof of a building to watch the ceremony performed by Hindu Priests in honor of the sacred river. This is usually watched from the river in boats but it is too dangerous with the floods. Very colorful and smoky ceremony ... lots of burning incense, chanting and drumming ... monkeys cheekily run past us and jump on the roof near us .. Ray amuses himself by counting geckos, and I watch people below bathing in the water.
Out to dinner via another traffic nightmare - nice dinner our last before we fly to Delhi and head in different directions homeward bound. Fantastic trip, I still love India... glad I've been to Varanasi but nope ... not going back there!!!
Thanks to Queen Rosie, Shari Samosa and Ray for sharing this adventure with me, to Jassa our amazing guide who smooths the bumps and understands that I like shopping more than history .... and Felix and Gwen for all their organizing!!!
Well done!!
- comments
Felix I really like the way you write this Jill. And thanks for all the support from us all at Rustic India.
Kenny Loved ALL your blogs Jill. Saved me standing in all that COW SH**. It was a pleasure traveling with you. (From a nice warm house with hot water) Lol
Gwen Wow Jill, loved the blog... felt like I was there. Looking forward to reading about your next adventure. Loved organizing the trip for you.