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14/8 Death by Monasterys!!
Serring our local guide (who's English is getting easier to understand) had told us about a refugee place for displaced Tibetan aged folk in Leh. We decided on our final assault on the only three remaining monastery's in Ladakh we hadn't seen .... we would visit the home . Sharis Neighbour is a mad knitter and had knitted a heap of jumpers and hats for an orphanage Shari is associated with in Thailand. Some of these were too big for the kids so this seemed the perfect place to leave them. We had collected boxes of apples and apricots from the previous days travels and brought them along as well. The old folk were sitting around a open area the dirt, watching us get out of our vehicle with great curiosity. They were so surprised and humble to receive firstly the fruit which we distributed evenly amongst the 50 residents then the jumpers and hats. These old folk have nothing except a few clothes and their prayer wheels which they sit swinging gently .. probably dreaming of Tibet and a time so different to now.
The old folk we so grateful it was heart breaking - despite their situation they were laughing and smiling with us ... We all left in tears ... bloody Chinese government - feel like I need to buy one of those Free Tibet badges....
Onward to monastery No. 1 ' and not for the first time I wonder why they are always at the top of a bloody hill and the steps so steep??? Did I mention we are still at high altitude .. Puff puff puff!!!
There was a delightful old lady whose job was to carry basketfuls of cement on her back up rickety stairs to the roof where renovations were being done - all with a smile and a big grin when I gave her a Polo mint!!! Amazing!!
Short drive to Monastery No.2!! 'Thiksey' Now this one unglazed my eyes!!! A Bollywood movie was being shot here!! I thought the Lama I spotted was too hot to be real!!! Lots of theatrics to observe - I almost got out of going into the temple (they are seriously now all blurring into one!) but Jassa keeps an eye on Shari and I to make sure we get the full tour and don't sneak off!!!
We did hear drums and chanting and dashed into another temple there and it was in full swing .. loads of Lamas with yellow hats, little Lamas blowing conch shells, beating drums and chanting - it was fantastic. Another older Lama carried a teapot and was pouring yellow liquid into people's palms .. apparently according to Serrings frenzied gesturing to me I was to drink some and splash the rest on my head ... Two lots of serious gastro so far - I don't care how holy it is I'm not drinking it!! So I splashed it on my head - for the rest of the day I looked like Cameron Diaz out of 'Something about Mary' with the stuck up hair!!
No.3 Monastery was really a palace/monastery (Shey Palace) yes .. Up a zillion stairs .. must be good for my thighs ...!!! Thank god .. tick .. we have seen them all now!! Every one!!! Don't get me wrong they are beautiful and full of history ... but we all know history is not my strong point - I overload quickly!!
15/8 India Independence Day!! Or as I will remember it - Two Hump Camel Day!!!
Up early to navigate the Worlds highest Navigable Road. Yes the WORLD's Highest!! (5602 metres or about 18000 ft) obviously the drive wasn't straight up ... Round and round, blind corner after blind corner, one lane that's squeezes into two ... Lots of tooting at bends and combined prayers from all of us on board our 4x4 - shear drops - very few barricades .. quite a few trucks upside down on the hillside below remind us how dangerous this road is ... up, up and finally we are in the clouds and in line with the glaciers. The road surface is horrendous .. but the views are spectacular ... simply stunning!
Finally we reach the top!! Thousands of prayer flags are strung everywhere .. I can understand .. serious prayers are needed to make it safely this far ..
There is a souvenir shop - the highest in the world and to my shock I buy nothing .. perhaps it was my trembling hands, lack of oxygen or the freezing cold!! My shopping reputation in tatters we went into the cafe and had a magnificent little cup of full of black tea with cardamom! Warmed us up - so we had another!!
As we wind our way down the other side we meet heaps of traffic as its a public holiday. Our dynamic driver delivers us safely to the bottom of the mountain! Well done! Pity we have to drive back again tomoro :((
Onward to what I have been so excited about .. a ride on a two hump camel!!! One hump is so yesterday!!! It was just on lunch time and the camel drivers were wandering off for lunch ... but they agreed to take us for a 30min ride. My camel was obviously miffed about delayed lunch and reluctantly dragged herself around the circuit!!! The humpy bits are kind of soft and wobbly and flop around a bit!! Great fun except the down hill but where I thought I was going to glide through my camels ears!!! Tick that off the bucket list!!!
Lunch at a roadside cafe where the waiter patiently explained it was only Indian Food ... hmm as one would expect in India!! Great lunch and we were in for a final treat before camp ... another monastery!! Lol!! There's always one more!!!! It was new and quite brilliant ... but I was more interested in watching the sand storm roaring up the valley! Brilliant!!
Finally to our camp .. very glam .. gorgeous Swiss chalet tents set amongst a huge veggie and flower garden - very pretty and ... yes hot water!!! Lovely!!!
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