So last night was a bad idea. Elias is less than cheerie in the morning as standard, but when he has had a few then night before, insufferable! It is like trying to push an elephant up the stairs, getting Elias to move at anything other than a crawl. We also have to check out this morning incase we decide to hitch hike today. Something I have overlooked, as I frantically stuff all my gear in to my bag, in a haphazard, disorganised flurry of panic. It fits in, less than convincingly, but I get the bag closed and trail it down the 4 flights of stairs and leave it behind the desk, then out the door, up the street to the travel agents, Elias, somewhere behind, position, unknown. either way, I'm not missing my tour. I get to the tour office just in time and the girl motions for me to go across the road where a small bus is waiting. As I'm getting on I look back down the street for Elias, I find him walking nonchalantly, not a care in the world, I shout at him to hurry up, not that it makes a difference.
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We get on the bus and off it goes. Of course we have to stop at a few places and fill the bus up with people eager to come to the tunnels. The bus is small, cramped and too hot. My mood is somewhat improved when the bus driver puts on the classic Vietnamese techno that I love so much, because as usual I never pack my iPod. We appear to be in HCM for the longest time, I think even after an hour of driving we are still in some part of the city. I am already not feeling confident about the chances of hitch hiking today, but I decide I will wait until Elias has worked it out for himself. To add insult to injury the bus even gets lost on the way, I mean is this the first time he has done the trip? When we stop at the 'rest stop' it is the most deficient one I have ever been at, can't get food anywhere, just over priced drinks and a factory where disabled people work.
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Eventually we get to the Chu Chi complex, and I have never been so glad to get off a bus, just outside, with my own space, wonderful. We have to pay our entry fee ourselves because that is not included as part of the tour and then we are on our way. First off we are led in to a covered dug out where we watch a video on the history of the tunnels, and although it was interesting, the screen was too small and the English voice over was difficult for me to understand, needless to say, Elias hadn't a clue what was going on. They then have a model in the same room showing the tunnels and how they were laid out, with a multitude of levels, and various guard caverns and traps in case the enemy was to get in.
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Next we head to the only original tunnel left, all the rest have been reconstructed. The guide heads in first, and takes a long time to emerge at the other side. How long is this tunnel? We have a large group and so we probably spend about an hour here with most people giving it a go. Of course this angers Elias and he just wanders off, god knows what he was doing, so I have to wait until he returns so that he can take my photo in the tunnel. I strategically wait until someone who is larger than me has tried, then I know i'll be alright. Some people drop down the hole and then panic and have to be lifted out again. People who have completed it are talking about bats, insects and how it is so hot and pitch black. Sounds great. My turn. When I lower myself in to the hole I have to keep my hands above my head as I descend because the hole is so narrow. Once in the tunnel I can see why there was some commotion. You can't see anything. Nothing. Pitch black. I fumble around for my phone while another girl is descending behind me, she has a torch, thank god. I ask her to shine it over my shoulder so I can see where to go. I am on my honkers, squat walking with my head touching the roof. I get brief glimpses of the route ahead when the light from behind beams over my shoulder. There are crispy, dry leaves lining the bottom of the tunnel, not an original feature I suspect. It is so humid in here, I am starting to feel a little uncomfortable. As I proceed suddenly the roof appears lower up ahead, I have to start crawling on my hands and knees. Then the girl in front of me stops. There must be some issue up ahead. So I wait. The longer I am just stationary the more uncomfortable I begin to feel, I will be pleased when we start moving again. After what seems like an eternity we start to move, I feel the bats flapping against my ears and head, I can only see glimpses of my route ahead. Round one more corner and I can see the light, I crawl up the ramp and on to some steps. Relief. It's amazing to think that people actually lived in these tunnels. Though I still think that this particular tunnel has been widened, I think the original would have been a good third smaller.
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The guide then shows up to an area showing all the different types of traps that the guerrilla fighters used. This was a fight of American military against local people, not trained military, just local people who did not want to give up their land. So everything has a very rough and ready feel to it. All the traps designed to mame rather than kill outright. Effective use of bamboo and poison, and an acute understanding of how the American military worked allowed for some very interesting traps. I am glad I was not involved, it looks horrible. We also see how the guerrilla fighters used the bombs that were dropped to extract the explosives and turn them in to anti tank mines. What ingenuity. We stop briefly at an area where you can fire some guns. I am initially excited and am ready to burn some of my money in bullets, but then I see that the guns are mounted. Having never fired a gun before I think i'm going to want to have that sore shoulder as a memory, so I save my money. The noise is deafening as rounds are being fired off, not a nice place to sit unless you are firing a gun.
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We get to walk past an American tank that was destroyed by one of the mines. Of course the American in the group is climbing right on top of it to get his photo taken, nice. The rest of us move on. The final stop we have is a reconstructed tunnel, fully plastered with lights and everything. It is large enough that you can walk crouched over. Not a highlight for me. Not really an accurate representation of anything. Just something to keep tourists happy. You know that tour has been cut short when you are rushed through the gift shop. Some girls in our group have a plane to catch and this has only been brought to the guides attention, so we hot step it back to the bus.
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The bus journey home is just as pleasant as the journey there, except this time with no music, we chat to a couple of Canadians, who help ease my boredom for a few minutes. I ponder for a moment at what luxury private helicopter Suzanne must have got to the tunnels, and how her experience differed to mine. We shall discuss. When we get back to HCM it is too late for the hitch hiking so we check back in to our hostel and go out for some dinner. This is followed up by some pool, though Elias calls it an early night. I play with an American, Connor. Today a feel like I really know Vietnam, I am out in the street bargaining with the street sellers, getting me some dried squid and the craker things I love. All in Vietnamese, and getting the right price. It feels great. As the night goes on Connor fancies checking out one of the Lady bars, I go with him. He is chatting away to this girl and goes to take her home, but the $50 price tag is too steep for him. I laugh and we part ways. To bed, hitch hiking tomorrow.