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ANZAC Day. We had to explain to the Scottish cousins what this day means to Australians, even when abroad. A lovely bunch of flowers and a card tribute was taken down to the towns War Memorial in the churchyard. We were happy to leave it on the grey stone, as commemoration of all the young men who died, whatever nationality. But surprise - we discovered the names of some fallen Australian and New Zealanders etched into the stone too. Maybe they were recent immigrants to the other side of the world? We left our flowers beneath their names, and shed a tear or two just as we would have in Adelaide.
Then off in Anne (Mama's) little car on our next adventure. Anne came along for the ride, as she wanted to revisit the city block right in Edinburgh town centre where generations of her family used to own a huge sweet factory - Fergusons.
Although having travelled this road many, many times, Anne was happy to let Nicky drive the distances today. She was not so sure of either the GPS Garmin directions, or Karens reading of the A-Z Road Atlas (still in active use), and kept commenting that "I don't like to say, but……" and then saying anyway her opinion of the chosen route. Very amusing, except for Nicky - trying to drive with all these conflicting instructions, but she held her cool. Well done!
15th century Rosslyn Chapel eventually discovered, we gazed in awe at the stone work totally covering this little church, and thought of the skill of the stone masons to carve such intricate designs. The interior was just as impressive, not a single surface untouched by the skill of the craftsmen, even the ceiling was covered in images. It was a game of "I Spy" looking at the many details. Religious images, animals, plants, nods to Mason input and the reputed influence of the Templer Knights, plus icons of the owning family are everywhere, with Green Men looking down from all sorts of odd places. The Apprentice Pillar, twisting its way to the roof is a definite improvement on the work of his Master, but sadly not worth dying for, we feel. An interesting talk by a volunteer guide, indicating the input of the public in assisting in the restoration of this building, a total ruin in the era of Queen Victoria, used as a shelter for animals, with basically no roof and ferns growing on the walls. Slow changes were made, money limiting the works. But after the more recent success of a certain book by Dan Brown, the visitors increased multiple thousands of times, and the money generated by the entrance fees taken has contributed to the new visitor centre as well as the ongoing restoration and preservation of the stone church. Funny how opposites can attract and fictional stories lead to positive outcomes for opposing sides of reality.
A jaw-dropping hour later, Mama stayed warm in the tea room whilst the rest of us braved the very chill wind and odd snowflake to walk the short distance to the ruined castle, the inhabitants of course requiring the little chapel to be built on the hill above. Although their ideas were larger than their finances, not assisted by the early deaths of most of the family heirs, so that Rosslyn is actually only the small beginning of a church which should have been around 5 times the size. It took over 30 years to build as it was, so it was definitely a long term employment opportunity for the masons working there!
We walked past the churchyard, which contains a large number of Commonwealth War Graves, so the ANZAC day connection followed us here too.
The castle ruins, basically only a few walls and the tall bridge leading to it, is now the front yard of a lodge house, a most impressive driveway indeed.
Then off to Edinburgh - what with all those helpful hints on the correct roads to take, and Nickys' now famous sense of direction, we managed to do an almost complete circuit of the city, viewing it from a distance and almost every compass direction possible! The city centre eventually discovered, we toursits set off to walk the Royal Mile, starting in the large forecourt to the castle on the rock itself. Knowing the length of time it takes us to do these historic buildings justice (or is that justice to the entrance prices charged?) we decided it was too late to explore its dark sombre stone halls, and turned back down the hill. A bagpiper was playing on a street corner, which was most appropriate, but we decided that we had been lead astray as to the importance of this street - it was just full to brimming of tourist shops, basically all selling the same horrid souvenirs. Must have missed something on the map maybe?
Nicky and Anne caught up with us and we happily followed them to the Grassmarket, past the black wooden door which used to be Annes' fathers office, then more recently the main headquarters for the Scouting movement. After a lovely afternoon tea in the warmth indoors, Nick and Karen braved the chill air a second time for further exploration of the city. Wandering down the street, we discovered Greyfriars Abbey, and climbed the stairs to the churchyard in search of the memorial to Bobby, the dog who faithfully stayed at his masters side, even in death.
Then Nick looked over the wall, and excitedly pointed down at the street below - he had discovered the Oz Pub! Perfect timing, perfect placement, to continue our Anzac commemorations. We scampered back down the steps and entered a tiny piece of Australia, so far from home. Anzac Day game of Aussie Rugby league on the TV, AFL guernseys pinned behind the bar, and Jimmy Barnes playing Khe Sanh in the background. But best of all - not just Australian, but South Australian beer on sale - cold and fizzy! Happily indulging in a Coopers Sparkling Ale each, we enjoyed our half hour listening to other Aussie accents and felt quite at home, unsurprisingly.
Then back to rejoin the others, and more convoluted and confusing directions to leave the city over the Firth of Forth to see the famous rail bridge. Most impressive and worth the frustration to get there.
After dinner, Karen continued our ANZAC day traditions by baking a batch of appropriate biscuits, which were eagerly devoured whilst we watched an episode of The Anzac Girls on the TV.
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